The Olivier salad, which has become very famous in our country, was invented by a chef from France in the sixties of the XIX century, his name was Lucien Olivier. In addition to the fact that Lucien was a culinary specialist, he also owned the Hermitage tavern, which was located at that time on Trubnaya Square in Moscow.

The inn, in terms of its level, was quite consistent with a real Parisian restaurant. His signature dish was the Olivier salad. Lucien Olivier kept the recipe for this dish in the strictest confidence. Since the death of the chef, the history of Olivier salad has become overgrown with secrets and it was believed that the secret of the famous real Olivier salad has been lost. There were many attempts to solve it, but nothing worked.

In 1904, culinary specialists succeeded, knowing the main ingredients, to restore the recipe for a real Olivier salad. So to cook this original salad, it was necessary to have on hand following products: pressed caviar - ¼ pound, two hazel grouses, veal tongue, boiled crayfish - 25 pieces, kabul soybeans - ½ can, two fresh cucumbers, half a pound fresh salad, half a can of pickles, ¼ lb. capers and five hard-boiled eggs. To prepare the sauce, French vinegar, two eggs and Provencal oil (olive) - 1 pound were required (the same Provencal mayonnaise).

But still, gourmets who tried the original salad prepared by Lucien Olivier claimed that it was much different from the salad made with the reconstituted recipe. This, one might say, ended the history of the Olivier salad, as its contemporaries knew it. The well-known Olivier salad with boiled sausage has nothing to do with the creation of a French chef.

The recipe for the modern "Olivier" was invented during the Soviet Union. Then it was very tight with crayfish, hazel grouses and other delicacies. So they were replaced with boiled sausage, green peas and others available ingredients... This is how the history of the new salad "Olivier" began, which is still cooked in almost every family in Russia.

On the eve of the New Year holidays, we want to tell you about the history of the main decoration festive table- salad "Olivier". Without it culinary masterpiece Not a single New Year's feast is complete, it was prepared by our grandmothers and mothers, it is he who is our official taste of the New Year. And it all began in a very Russian way ...

Photo © culture.ru

The scene is the Hermitage tavern

The original recipe for Olivier salad was invented by a chef from France in the 60s of the XIX century, his name was Lucien Olivier. In addition to the fact that Lucien was an excellent culinary specialist, he was also the owner of the Moscow tavern "Hermitage", which was located on Trubnaya Square, at the corner of Petrovsky Boulevard and Neglinnaya Street. It may be familiar to contemporaries as the building of the Moscow theater "School of the modern play". The restaurant was open from 11 am to 4 am. About 60 chefs prepared food here, and the daily revenue was 2 thousand rubles a day, which was comparable to the budget of a small town.

In the 1860s, the inn was popular and was a true Parisian restaurant. Richly decorated with stucco, crystal chandeliers and bronze, with separate booths and excellent French-Russian cuisine, the restaurant has become a favorite vacation spot for the Moscow elite. It was within these walls that the chef Lucien Olivier introduced the discerning public to the unprecedented at that time cold sauce "mayon" - the ancestor of modern mayonnaise.

The nobility poured into the new French restaurant, where, in addition to the common halls and offices, there was a white columnar hall in which it was possible to order the same dinners that Olivier did in the mansions of the nobles. Delicacies from abroad were also ordered for these dinners and the best wines with a certificate that this cognac is from the cellars of the palace of Louis XVI, and with the inscription "Trianon"- V.A. Gilyarovsky "Moscow and Muscovites".

Photo © pastvu.com/ Iskra magazine # 28, 1907

Game mayonnaise

After a while, guests' requests began to grow, visitors demanded a new menu. To return the former glory to his tavern, as the abode of all the cream of society, Lucien came up with a completely new dish - an unusual author's salad "Olivier". New piece culinary arts not only justified its purpose, but also confidently entered the annals of history, remaining today irreplaceable recipe for a solemn feast.

It is important to note that initially the chef did not set himself the goal of coming up with a salad. The French soul demanded something exquisite, so initially his dish appeared under the name "Game Mayonnaise". Its original composition consisted of well-boiled grouse and partridge aspic meat cut into slices, and crayfish necks boiled in a spicy broth and slices of boiled tongue were added as decoration. This whole grandiose still life of meat was flavored with Provencal sauce, prepared on the basis of the usual mayon, and in the center of the exposition there were boiled potatoes, gherkins and boiled eggs cut into cubes.

The Frenchman soon noticed that visitors to the Hermitage were not very much inspired by this segregation. On the contrary, in the simplicity of their soul, they mix all the contents of the plate together, and with great pleasure they eat the newfangled dish, spoiling the original beauty and idea of ​​the author's presentation.

After this observation, Olivier did not bother with the long-term decoration of his signature dish, but greatly facilitated the preparation procedure. He did it very simply: he chopped and mixed all the ingredients, seasoning them abundantly with the crown sauce. This is how the Olivier salad saw the light.

Today we can find a dozen variants of the resourceful French salad recipe. But, of course, the original formula and cooking technology of "Olivier" was strictly classified at that time, and to taste the real dish according to classic recipe it was possible only in the Hermitage tavern.

Many chefs racked their brains over the unsolvable questions, in what proportions to mix the ingredients and how is the main detail of the salad made - the impeccable Lucien Olivier sauce? Immediately after the deafening premiere of the new dish, many culinary minds in Moscow tried to experimentally repeat original recipe legendary appetizer, but everyone suffered a complete fiasco. And Lucien continued to calculate the profits and prepare his popular salad.

Photo © auction.ru

After the death of the chef, the history of Olivier salad began to acquire secrets and it was believed that the secret of the famous real salad was lost. The grave of the famous chef at the Vvedenskoye cemetery became a place of pilgrimage for cooks and restaurateurs of that time. It is rumored that some of them have tried occult practices to uncover the secret of a popular recipe.

Photo © Alexander Krivonosov

The secret of the recipe

Of course, there have been many attempts to unravel proprietary recipe Frenchman, but all attempts were unsuccessful. But, thanks to endless gastronomic experiences, many new cold dishes and variations of salads a la Olivier have appeared. One of these samples turned into the Stolichny salad, the recipe for which is now being issued as the classic Olivier. Lucien Olivier kept his own recipe in the strictest confidence, because that is why more and more visitors came to try his "secret" dish.

According to some assumptions, this is how the classic, unique correct recipe salad "Olivier" from the creator. True, over time, Lucien himself made some changes to his original recipe, but in the end the composition of the appetizer became as follows:

Grouse - 2 birds;
Tongue of a young heifer - ½ piece;
Pausnaya sturgeon caviar- 100 g;
Lettuce leaves - 180 g;
Crayfish - 20-25 pcs.;
Gherkins - 200 g;
Kabul sauce - 60 g;
Fresh cucumber - 2 pcs.;
Capers - 0.1 kg;
Boiled chicken eggs - 5 pcs.;

For the Provencal sauce:

Olive oil - 0.4 l;
Raw egg yolks - 2 pcs.;
French vinegar - to taste;
Mustard -2-3 tbsp.;

A funny and little-known detail, but when making Provencal sauce, Lucien Olivier varied the amount of mustard depending on the amount of alcohol consumed by visitors. The more drunk the audience, the sharper the mayonnaise. To non-drinking guests, the Olivier salad was served with the most delicate dressing, so that they could appreciate all its charm.

Salad a la "Olivier"

After the events of 1917, after the First World War, many products became an inaccessible luxury for most establishments. This gave an impetus to the chefs of the "new era" to embark on a "culinary fever" in search of an alternative recipe famous salad"Olivie".

The original recipe remained a secret, so the task of the culinary specialists was only to create a new salad, vaguely reminiscent of that legendary treat from the inn on Truba. So, in 1920, the recipe for a salad a la "Olivier" in the "Moscow" restaurant looked like:

Boiled vegetables (6 potatoes and 3 carrots), pickled cucumbers (2 pcs.), 250 g of chicken and 3 eggs, should be cut into neat cubes. Onions (1 head) must be finely chopped.Salt and pepper all the ready-made slices and 1 glass of green peas to taste, then mix with mayonnaise (170 g). When serving, garnish a portion of salad with parsley and green apple slices.

Photo © fb.ru

By the 1930s, the chef of the same "Moscow" again turned to the original recipe, and, after making a couple of copyright amendments, named the resulting dish a new name - Stolichny salad. Until the 50s, "Stolichny" held a leading position among the main Soviet treats. A set of ingredients for its preparation:

Game - 50 g;
Fresh cucumber - 40 g;
Green salad leaves - 10 g;
Boiled potatoes - 60 g;
Boiled crayfish fillet - 10 g;
Boiled egg - 40 g;
Gherkins - 10 g;
Olives - 10 g;
"Yuzhny" spicy sauce- 1 tbsp.;
Mayonnaise - 1/3 tbsp.;
Salt to taste;

Today's Olivier salad is more than just a salad, no matter what name it comes up with. Surprisingly, today he personifies the New Year mood, and even unites whole families around him. Cook with pleasure, and most importantly - with heart, because this is perhaps the very secret ingredient of Lucien Olivier.

Text © Sasha Vladinets / "Moscow is Changing"

Russians are idealists and great inventors. Russian Sherlock Holmes is the most sincere of all, films about cowboys are kind and thoroughly imbued with the Russian spirit, but what to say about the famous "Three Musketeers" ... Well, unless the French pedants can be compared with the charming Boyarsky with a beaming smile. The same thing happens not only in the cinema, but also in Russian cuisine. Many dishes of other people's cuisines are processed according to our needs, acquiring in our conditions a new, and sometimes completely different taste. This happened with the Olivier salad. The history of Olivier salad is known to few. The famous Olivier salad was invented by a French chef in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, and the name of the famous chef is misleading to many. Nevertheless, the fact is the fact. Lucien Olivier is the founder of the famous Hermitage restaurant, as well as the author of a magnificent and still living salad.

The elite restaurant Hermitage was built by Lucien Olivier after many years of living in Moscow, when he realized what was missing in the Russian capital. There was a lack of French chic. Joining forces with the wealthy merchant Yakov Pegov, Olivier buys a plot in the center of Moscow and intends to build a first-class restaurant based on the best French standards. Already by the mid-60s of the 19th century, on the site of a booth selling snuff, a chic building with white columns, crystal chandeliers with isolated offices and luxurious interiors arose. It was then a novelty for Moscow, and the nascent bourgeoisie poured into the restaurant. At first, Olivier's establishment was called a Tavern in the Russian way, and the waiters were also dressed in the "tavern way". The following facts can tell about the importance and popularity of the restaurant: in 1879, a gala dinner was held in the Hermitage in honor of I.S. Turgenev, in 1880 - in honor of F.M. Dostoevsky, in 1899 - the famous celebration of the centenary of Pushkin's birthday, which was attended by all the eminent writers and poets of that time. In the Hermitage, university professors celebrated anniversaries and students celebrated Tatiana's Day, intellectuals gathered and rich merchants feasted. All in all, Olivier's restaurant, like its excellent cuisine, attracted the best people of the time.

Lucien Olivier, the youngest of the three Olivier brothers, from whom the history of Olivier salad began, when he was very young, went to work in Moscow. Like many Frenchmen, he hoped to apply his culinary skills in a country that had always respected French cuisine... While his brothers were cooking for French gourmets, Lucien opened his Hermitage restaurant. At first, the business brought in significant income, and the young Frenchman cooked dishes familiar from childhood. This success was largely due to the "family" recipe-improvement of mayonnaise sauce or mayonnaise. In the Olivier family, at the beginning of the 19th century, they began to add mustard in the manufacture of sauce, as well as several secret spices, which made the taste of the familiar sauce slightly spicy. The popularity of the Olivier family's mayonnaise was so strong that it allowed the older brothers to keep their business in France, and Lucien to open a Moscow "branch" on Trubnaya Square. The building in which the restaurant was located has survived to this day, it is house number 14 on Petrovsky Boulevard, the corner of Neglinnaya. So someday a commemorative plaque or a whole monument to Olivier's Salad may appear on it.

But everything is transient in this world, and gradually sauce alone became not enough for the success of the establishment. His taste quickly became boring, and the changeable fashion swung in the direction of skinny pale young ladies, whose beauty, of course, was interfered with by Olivier's mouth-watering and high-calorie sauces. It was necessary to come up with something urgently. And then Lucien Olivier came up with new salad, a genuine work of art. Its taste was so exquisite that it instantly brought the Frenchman the fame of a great cook, and the popularity of his restaurant, which was beginning to fade away, flared up with renewed vigor. Visitors named the new salad Olivier Salad, which was quite in keeping with the traditions of Russian names. Since then, the name Olivier has become a household name, and they tried to repeat the salad countless times, in the end, simplifying the recipe so much that its modern version is the complete opposite of the original. Many chefs tried to repeat Olivier's recipe, but, not knowing all the ingredients, they inevitably suffered a fiasco - the taste of a real Olivier Salad could be appreciated only in the Hermitage restaurant.

The taste of the famous dish was largely obtained due to own recipe mayonnaise Monsieur Olivier. It was said that the Frenchman jealously kept the recipe and carried out the operation to prepare it in a special room behind a closed door. The sauce route was not easy. Originally Olivier made a sauce called Game Mayonnaise. It consisted of boiled fillets of hazel grouse and partridges, interlaced with layers of broth jelly. Boiled crayfish necks and small pieces of tongue lay along the edges of the dish. All this was not flavored big amount Provencal sauce of own production. In the center, the structure was decorated with a pile of potatoes with gherkins and slices boiled eggs as decoration. At the same time, the central potato part, according to the author's plan, was intended more for beauty. Once Lucien Olivier noticed that some Russians who ordered this dish immediately broke the whole idea, stirring the whole structure with a spoon, and absorbed this tasty mass with great appetite. The next day, an enterprising Frenchman mixed all the ingredients and poured thick sauce over them. This is how the famous salad was born, which was reborn from an exquisite but inconvenient "game mayonnaise" into an equally refined, but closer to the Russian soul, "Olivier salad".

Here is the recipe for the classic "Olivier salad" prepared at the best of times in the Hermitage restaurant (restored in 1904 from the descriptions of a regular restaurant patron):
Fillet of two boiled hazel grouses,
One boiled veal tongue
About 100 grams of pressed black caviar,
200 grams of fresh lettuce leaves,
25 boiled crawfish or one large lobster
200-250 grams of small cucumbers,
Half a can of soybean kabul (soybean paste),
2 finely chopped fresh cucumbers,
100 grams of capers,
5 finely chopped, hard-boiled eggs
Dressing with Provencal sauce: 400 grams of olive oil, whipped with two fresh egg yolks, with the addition of French vinegar and mustard.

One of the secrets classic taste Olivier salad consisted in the addition of some spices by the Frenchman. The composition of these spices, unfortunately, is unknown, so the true taste of the salad can only be imagined from the descriptions of contemporaries.

The preparation itself was just as exciting:

Fry the hazel grouse in a 1-2 centimeter layer of oil over a high flame for 5-10 minutes. Then put them in boiling water or broth (beef or chicken), add 150 ml of Madeira to 850 ml of broth, 10-20 pitted olives, 10-20 small mushrooms and simmer for 20-30 minutes over low heat under a lid. When the meat begins to slightly separate from the bones, add salt, let it simmer for a couple of minutes and turn off the flame. Place the saucepan with hazel grouse, without pouring the broth, into a large container with cold water and let cool. The purpose of this is to allow the hazel grouse meat to cool down gradually. The fact is that when separated hot, the meat begins to dry out and loses its tenderness. However, it is necessary not to overdo it and separate the warm meat - do not let the hazel grouse freeze, otherwise it will completely cease to be removed from the bones. Wrap the removed meat in foil and place in a cold place. Do not pour the broth after boiling the mushrooms - it will make a great soup! (if you don’t find hazel grouses and decide to replace them with chicken, remember - the chicken must be cut into 2-3 pieces and cook a little longer - 30-40 minutes).

The tongue should be free of fat, lymph nodes, sublingual muscle tissue and mucus. Perhaps half the tongue will suffice. Rinse the tongue thoroughly in cold water, put it in cold water, bring to a boil and cook over low heat with the lid tightly closed for 2-4 hours (the time depends on the age of the owner of the tongue - 2 hours will be enough for a young calf). Half an hour before the tongue is ready, add chopped carrots, parsley root to the same saucepan, onion and a piece of bay leaf. Season with salt 5-10 minutes before the end of cooking. As soon as the tongue is cooked, immediately put it in a container of cold water for 20-30 seconds, then put it on a plate and remove the skin from it (if the tongue still burns your fingers, dip it again in water). After cleaning your tongue, put it back in the broth and quickly bring it to a boil, then turn off the flame and put the saucepan to cool in a large container filled with ice water. Wrap the cooled tongue in foil as well and place in a cold place.

Cut the caviar small cubes.

Rinse lettuce leaves thoroughly, dry and chop just before cooking.

Immerse live crayfish washed in cold water in a boiling solution with their heads down. To prepare a solution for cooking crayfish, take: 25 grams of parsley, onions and carrots, 10 grams of tarragon, 30-40 grams of dill, 1 Bay leaf, a few peas of allspice and 50 grams of salt. After placing the crayfish in boiling water, let the water boil again and cook for another 10 minutes. After turning off the heat, do not take it out immediately, but let the crayfish brew, and then cool the pan with the finished crayfish using the above method.

Chop the pickles finely just before mixing.

Mash the soybeans before adding to the salad.

Peel fresh cucumbers and chop finely (not necessarily evenly - you can also "chop"). Chop the capers finely after drying them.

Eggs must be large and fresh. Do not digest them in any way. Consider this part carefully. The sensation of eggs should be fresh, the protein needs to be tender, not rubbery. Cook for 7-8 minutes, but not 15.

Cut and mix all the ingredients (try to do this gently, moving from bottom to top). Add your own mayonnaise and serve immediately. It is also important to consider the amount of alcohol consumed by guests. The more - the sharper the sauce should be. If the guests are sober, then it would be more logical to refuel classic mayonnaise, to evaluate delicate taste all ingredients.

This was the recipe at the time of its reproduction by one of the regular customers restaurant. Perhaps something was not taken into account, but the main components that are difficult to hide from the sophisticated public are present in the recipe. Unfortunately, the secret of the spices that made the taste of the dish special and unique has been lost. After the death of Lucien Olivier in 1883, the Hermitage restaurant went to the "Olivier partnership", for a long time the restaurant passed from hand to hand, and famous recipe went to the rich houses of the capital, or rather to the kitchens of these houses. The personal chefs of many of the richest people in the capital tried to recreate the recipe of the French master and offered this famous salad at dinner parties. This situation could have lasted forever, if not for the First World War, and then the 1917 revolution. The abrupt disappearance of many foods hit Olivier's salad hard. At that time, there was no time for delights - for many years the country plunged into the darkness of timelessness, and on the food side - into severe hunger and the rationing system of food distribution. But already in 1924, the era of the NEP begins and the country again appears, it seemed, irrevocably gone products. However, much could not be returned. Branded "bourgeois" hazel grouses or crayfish necks became inaccessible, and simply irrelevant among the then townspeople. The NEP times gave us several salad options. One of these restaurants, and I must say the central one at that time, since the highest party workers dined there, was the Moscow restaurant. It was headed by Ivan Mikhailovich Ivanov. He retained, albeit in a modified form, the recipe for the famous dish close to the original. And the realities of the time have made their own changes to the recipe.

So, - Olivier Salad recipe according to the Moscow restaurant in the mid-20s of the 20th century:

Ingredients:
6 potatoes
2 onions,
3 medium carrots
2 pickled cucumbers,
1 apple,
200 grams of boiled poultry meat,
1 cup green peas
3 boiled eggs
half a glass of olive mayonnaise,
salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation:
Take vegetables of medium size, fresh. Chop all ingredients finely and very evenly into equal pieces. Boil the potatoes and carrots, peel them, chop everything, mix and season with mayonnaise, top with parsley and apple slices.

In the early 30s, the chef of the Moskva restaurant, Ivan Mikhailovich Ivanov, corrected Lucien Olivier's recipe accordingly, calling the salad “Capital”. This title is not reflected in the 1939 book "On Tasty and Healthy Food", but it does contain "Game Salad", the recipe of which bears a striking resemblance to Olivier's salad. Reached the cookbook of 1955, "Capital Salad" has an adapted, but, nevertheless, close to the original composition.

Capital salad.

Ingredients:
60 g of poultry or game,
60 g potatoes
40 g fresh, pickled or pickled cucumbers,
10 g green salad
10 g crayfish necks,
45 g eggs
15 g sauce "Yuzhny",
70 g mayonnaise,
10 g pickles
10 olives.

Preparation:
Boiled or fried poultry or game, boiled peeled potatoes, fresh, pickled or pickled cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs, cut into thin slices (2-2.5 cm each). Finely chop the green lettuce leaves. Mix everything, season with mayonnaise, add Southern sauce. Place the salad in a slide in a salad bowl and arrange with circles or slices of a hard egg, slices of pickles, lettuce, circles fresh cucumbers... On the salad, you can put beautifully cut game fillets, crayfish necks or pieces canned crabs and olives.

The main principle - to grind everything and season with mayonnaise - has become widespread in the vastness of the Soviet and post-Soviet space, has given rise to many variations on the theme of the famous salad, and the modern version of Olivier salad is called "Russian salad" or "salade a la Russe" all over the world. The hazel grouses were first replaced with partridges, then chicken, and then just sausage. There were also recipes with beef, but this is too tough component, and the beef did not take root. Cancer necks, unfortunately, have sunk into oblivion, and in the 20th century they were no longer added to the salad, instead of them they were added boiled carrots... The capers were replaced with more affordable green peas, onions appeared in the salad, which is why he immediately acquired pungent taste... Lettuce leaves were replaced with parsley. Soy, veal tongue, like pressed black caviar(and truffles, according to one of the versions), also disappeared from the recipe. Mayonnaise from home-made mayonnaise was replaced with factory-made mayonnaise. Be that as it may, the Olivier salad continued to live even in these difficult conditions, being for a large part of an impoverished country a symbol of chic and delicacy. In the post-war period, in the second half of the 50s, when the country experienced strong growth and the standard of living rose again, the old salad reappeared on the festive table. Many products returned to the market, but even banal peas or Provencal mayonnaise were in dire shortages, and these products were always set aside to create a "festive" Olivier salad. Simplifying, the Olivier salad recipe acquired the main thing - from a rather high-calorie dish, with tasty, but still heavy and expensive components, the salad passed into the category of vegetable salad, the meat share of which was incomparably small.

As in the 19th century, modern Olivier salad is made from the products that are most readily available at the moment. If then caviar, crayfish tails, hazel grouses and capers were available, now it is boiled sausage, green peas, carrots and onions. And mayonnaise can be bought at the store. Losing expensive ingredients, the salad inevitably gained popularity among the general population of one sixth of the planet, and now it can boast not just a name, but the name of a whole class of salads that began to appear in later Soviet time... After all, salad with canned fish, and from crab sticks, as well as numerous other Soviet salads, appeared thanks to the ingenuity and partly the poverty of the counters, forcing the imagination of housewives and cooks to work. The symbolic significance of Olivier salad for Russian cuisine cannot be overestimated. It is always the main dish on the table, in the best salad bowl, no other salad has such a constant presence on festive feast... The tradition of serving food on plates is indicative. Olivier is always put either first or next after the potatoes. This respectful attitude towards a simple salad could not be hidden from the open gaze of foreign guests, who, of course, were also treated to Olivier salad. Throughout the rest of the world, our salad is known as "Russian salad", but it would be more correct to call the modern version of the dish "Soviet Olivier". Like "Soviet champagne" it has its own destiny, its own unforgettable taste and is considered the same powerful and indestructible symbol of the holiday.

Olivier salad)

Olivier salad

Salat Olivier- a popular salad in the countries of the former USSR, considered a festive and traditional New Year's. It got its name in honor of its creator, chef Lucien Olivier, who ran the Hermitage restaurant of Parisian cuisine in Moscow in the early 1860s. Abroad known as "Russian salad" or " Potato salad"(Potato salad, though without meat and peas). Sometimes Olivier is also called meat salad.

History

The earliest publication of an Olivier salad recipe, known at the moment, is given in the magazine "Our food" No. 6, March 31, 1894.

In the book by P.P. next recipe :

Olivier salad

Essential products and their proportion per person.

Grouse - ½ pieces. Potatoes - 3 pieces. Cucumbers - 1 piece. Salad - 3-4 leaves. Provencal - 1½ table. spoons. Cancer necks - 3 pieces. Lanspeak - ¼ glass. Capers - 1 teaspoon Olives - 3-5 pieces.

Cooking rules: Cut the fillets of fried good hazel grouse into blankets and mix with blankets of boiled, not crumbly potatoes and slices of fresh cucumbers, add capers and olives and pour a lot of Provencal sauce with kabul soy. After cooling, transfer to a crystal vase, decorate with crayfish tails, lettuce leaves and chopped lanspik. Serve very cold. Fresh cucumbers can be replaced with large gherkins. Instead of hazel grouse, you can take veal, partridge and chicken, but a real Olivier snack is made from hazel grouses.

According to some reports, the original salad recipe is as follows: 2 hazel grouse, veal tongue, quarter pound pressed caviar, half a pound fresh salad, 25 boiled crayfish, half a can of pickles, half a can of soy-kabul, two fresh cucumbers, a quarter of a pound of capers, 5 hard-boiled eggs.

For the sauce: Provencal mayonnaise should be cooked in French vinegar with 2 eggs and 1 pound of Provence (olive) oil.

In Soviet times, the recipes for Olivier salad changed several times, some ingredients were replaced by others, cheaper and more accessible. The standard Soviet Olivier consisted of 6 ingredients:

• boiled potatoes;
• boiled sausage ("Doctor's");
• boiled carrots;
• hard boiled eggs;
• pickled (pickled) cucumbers;
• green peas (canned);

Everything was cut into cubes, mixed and seasoned with mayonnaise. The ease of manufacture and the availability of ingredients have made this salad extremely popular dish in the Soviet years. Olivier was an indispensable attribute of the Soviet festive table at Day of the October Revolution and [a source?] New Year . Other name modern recipe of this salad - "Winter" - arose due to the fact that its ingredients are readily available in the winter, in contrast to the ingredients of "summer" salads. During the years of perestroika, changes took place in the Soviet recipe: the sausage was replaced boiled meat, and as an option, apples and fresh cucumbers... Chicken instead of beef got its name "Capital salad"... Moscow salad is also considered one of the varieties: catering workers added there boiled potatoes a lot. [a source?]

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See what "Olivier (salad)" is in other dictionaries:

Olivier salad- see Olivier salad ... The fate of the eponyms. Reference dictionary

Salad Salad (dish) (from Italian Salato, Salata, i.e. salty) cold dish prepared from various vegetables (actually lettuce leaves, various greens, root vegetables, mushrooms, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, fruits, green endive leaves, water ... ... Wikipedia

This term has other meanings, see Salad. Vegetable salad Salad (Italian Salato, Salata "salty" ... Wikipedia

Lucien Olivier, a cook of French or Belgian origin, who ran the Hermitage restaurant in Moscow in the early 1860s; known as the creator of the famous salad recipe, soon named after its creator. His ... ... Wikipedia

Lucien Olivier (fr. Lucien Olivier, 1838 1883) a cook of French or Belgian origin, who ran the Hermitage restaurant in Moscow in the early 1860s; known as the creator of the famous salad recipe, soon named after ... ... Wikipedia

Olivie- unsl., M. Olivier. In France, such a salad is unknown, it is assumed that it originated from the name of Fr. a chef who worked in Russia. Olivier salad. Chicken, crayfish, potatoes, cucumbers, eggs, salt, pepper, olive oil, green salad. Nezhentseva 1911 ... Historical Dictionary of Russian Gallicisms

V.A. Gilyarovsky in his book “Moscow and Muscovites” recalled: “It was considered special chic when the cook, Frenchman Olivier, who even then became famous for his“ Olivier salad ”invented by him, without which lunch is not at lunchtime, and the secret of which he would not open, cooked dinners. ... Culinary vocabulary

Olivier is the first and last name of French origin. Notable carriers: Olivier, Guillaume Antoine (1756 1814) French naturalist, entomologist and botanist. Olivier, Joseph (1874 1901) French rugby player, champion of the Summer Olympics ... ... Wikipedia

Discussing the recipe for Olivier salad is like discussing the Real Borscht itself. It's pointless. The fact is that the history of the appearance of lettuce is shrouded in so many myths that it is no longer clear where the truth is, and where is fiction. Almost all of us have heard that the French chef Lucien Olivier, who worked in the Hermitage restaurant, invented the salad, and information about this has come down to us thanks to. But Gilyarovsky is still a writer, how can you completely trust dreamers?

This is what historians have to say. “The version of Vladimir Gilyarovsky, according to which Lucien Olivier became famous for his salad back in the 1860s, is not confirmed by anything,” explains the candidate of philological sciences, researcher of Russian everyday culture. - In non-cultural pre-revolutionary sources, you can find references to the Hermitage and Olivier himself, but not his supposedly famous salad. Exceptions are rare: the story "On Tatiana's Day" (between 1896 and 1899), Vasily (?) Sakhnovsky's story "Tanya" (1907). Olivier's salad began to appear regularly in memoirs and literary sources only in the 1920s. It follows, in particular, that in Russian cuisine this dish did not have the same significance that it acquired in Soviet cuisine. Olivier's salad was just one of the many successful snacks accompanied by aromatic vodka. "
What is the true history of the salad?

“Aside from urban legends,” continues Maxim Marusenkov, “the first recipe for“ Olivier's snacks ”was published in the St. Petersburg magazine“ Our food ”in March 1894. A certain Vebe, answering the reader's question "How is Olivier's appetizer prepared?" art and industrial exhibition and during the life of Olivier himself (he died a year later). Pelageya Aleksandrova-Ignatieva included this recipe, already indicating the proportions of ingredients, in her first book, A Guide to Studying the Basics of Culinary Arts (1897), and then in Practical Foundations of Culinary Art (1899), which soon became very popular. With the release of new editions of this book, the salad recipe has been refined and detailed. The closest to the author's performance of Lucien Olivier (restored, however, from memory by the guest of the restaurant) was precisely the first, magazine version of the recipe. "

Olivier salad recipe from the magazine "Our food"

Shutterstock

“Fry hazel grouse, cool, cut into small slices; cook boiled (non-crumbly) potatoes, also in slices, and slices of fresh cucumbers, then add the kaports [capers] and olives; Mix all this and pour in plenty of the following sauce: add Kabul soy to an ordinary cold Provencal sauce until it is darkish in color and piquant taste, mask it with crayfish tails, lettuce leaves, lettuce and a little chopped lanspex on top. Serve very cold in a crystal vase, like a fruit maceduan. "

The recipe is, of course, self-explanatory. Soy "Kabul" is a spicy aromatic soy sauce, produced in London, lanspeek is a jelly made from a strong broth, and provence is what we now call mayonnaise, it was prepared from egg yolks, pounded with mustard, which were beaten, slowly adding vegetable oil.

Lemon juice was added to the finished thick sauce. Let's take this into account - and turn to the recipe of Aleksandrova-Ignatieva, thanks to which the canonical recipe for Olivier appeared, which has almost nothing to do with the one we are used to.

Olivier salad from the book by Pelageya Alexandrova-Ignatieva "Practical Foundations of Culinary Art" (1899)

Required products:
Grouse - 3 pcs.
Potatoes - 5 pcs.
Ogurtsov - 5 pcs.
Salad - 2 cats
Provencal - for ½ bottle. oils
Cancer necks - 10-15 pcs.
Lanspeek - 1 glass
Olives, gherkins - total ¼ f.
Truffles - 3 pcs.

Cooking rules:
Singe, gut, season and fry the natural banquet shot grouse, cool and remove all the pulp from the bones. Cut the fillets into blankets, and chop the rest of the pulp a little. From the bones of the game, cook a good broth, from which then prepare the lanspeak. Boil the potatoes in the skins, then peel and remove them into a groove, the size of a 3-kopeck coin, and chop the trimmings.

Peel fresh cucumbers and cut into thin slices. Cut the truffles into circles. Boil crayfish and take necks from them. Prepare a thick Provencal sauce, add to it for the pungency of kabul soy, and for the best taste and color a little heavy cream... Peel large olives with a screw. When everything is prepared, then take a glass vase or a deep salad bowl, remove the bottom of the dish with some salad leaves and start laying everything in rows.

First, put the cuttings of game and potatoes on the bottom, slightly seasoning them with Provencal, then put a number of game on top, then a part of potatoes, cucumbers, part of truffles, olives and crayfish necks, pour all this with a part of the sauce to make it juicy, put a row of game on top again and etc. Some of the crayfish necks and truffles should be left for decoration on top.

When all the products are placed in a vase in the form of a slide, then cover with Provencal on top so that the products are not visible.

Put some salad in the middle of the vase with a bouquet, and place crayfish necks, boiled crayfish claws and truffles around it more beautifully. Chop the frozen lanspeak, put it in a cornet, make a thin, elegant mesh on top and chill it well.

Since the original Olivier recipe has changed beyond recognition, we are allowed to handle it quite freely. Someone puts in it boiled sausage considering it a Soviet classic. Someone boils beef for a long time. Others add smoked chicken. Chefs of Moscow restaurants go the farthest and juggle the ingredients of their choice.

Mandarin Olivier (, chef of the "Duhless" bar)

A. Podgornykh

Ingredients:
Boiled potatoes - 500 g
Boiled carrots - 300 g
Green onions - 100 g
Fresh fennel - 100 g
Celery, stems - 100 g
Green apple - 100 g
Baked chicken - 1 pc.
Parsley mayonnaise - 200 g
Salt to taste
Jalapeno pepper - 1 pc.
To cover:
Mandarin fresh - 400 ml
Corn starch - 30 g
Edible gelatin - 50 g

How to cook:
First, bake the chicken - rub the whole carcass with salt, sweet paprika and olive oil and bake in the oven for 90 minutes at 160 ° C. Make mayonnaise: for 3 yolks add 50 g of Dijon mustard and 30 ml lemon juice, beat and in a thin stream, without ceasing to beat, add vegetable oil until you get a good sauce.

Add 50 g finely chopped parsley. Cut all the salad ingredients into small cubes, mix with the sauce and refrigerate for an hour.

Make jelly. Soak the gelatin for 10 minutes. Warm up the juice with starch, when the mass thickens a little, add gelatin. Take out the salad, roll into tangerine-shaped balls. Cover the jelly several times until the salad is completely hidden in the tangerine (approximately 8-9 sets every 10 minutes). Let the tangerine harden and place on the red caviar pillow.

Olivier with shrimp, veal tongue and salmon (Mikhail Simagin, chef of Siberia restaurant)

A. Podgornykh

Ingredients:
Fresh cucumbers - 25 g
Lightly salted cucumbers - 20 g
Carrots - 20 g
Potatoes - 25 g
Canned peas - 10 g
Shallots - 3 g
Protein chicken eggs boiled - 20 g
Boiled shrimps 13/15 - 20 g
Beef tongue - 30 g
Lightly salted salmon - 15 g
Dill, parsley - 2 g each
Watercress - 5 g
Pea puree - 50 g
Fresh frozen green peas - 50 g
Butter - 50 g
White wine - 20 g
Capers - 5 g
Olives - 5 g
Olives - 5 g
Chicken broth - 100 g
Refueling - 35 g
Homemade mayonnaise - 100 g
Sesame oil - 10 g
Horseradish cream - 20 g

How to cook:
Bake the carrots and potatoes in the oven and cut into cubes. Boil the beef tongue and also cut into cubes. Do the same for salmon, cucumbers, and protein. Season everything with sesame-lemon dressing. To prepare the dressing, mix in a blender homemade mayonnaise, sesame oil, creamy horseradish.

Put the resulting salad on a roll-shaped plate. And wrap with pea puree petals. Decorate with watercress.

To prepare pea mash, boil green peas in water for at least an hour until tender. Separately put olives, olives, capers in a saucepan, fry in butter, then add white wine, evaporate, add chicken broth, butter and bring to the consistency of a sauce. Combine the resulting sauce with green peas, punch in a blender. Put the resulting mass in a mold and make an imitation of petals.

Olivier with smoked chicken (Vladimir Gorskikh, chef of the Nikolas farm restaurant)

Oleg Citizens

Ingredients:
Smoked chicken fillet - 65 g
Potatoes - 85 g
Carrots - 60 g
Fresh cucumber - 50 g
Pickled cucumbers - 65 g
Canned peas - 50 g
Chicken egg - 1 pc.

Ingredients for Chicken Lanspik:
Chicken broth - 700 g
Gelatin in sheets - 40 g
Salt - 2 g
Pepper mixture - 1 g

Ingredients for decoration:
Fruit capers in vinegar with a tail - 3 g
Balsamic caramel - 5 ml
Cherry tomatoes - 10 g
Smoked chicken - 65 g
Cancer necks - 15 g
Helmans mayonnaise - 40 g

How to cook:
Boil potatoes and carrots in their skins until tender and refrigerate. Cut the peeled vegetables into small cubes. Add two types of cucumbers, boiled egg and smoked chicken fillet, also diced. Season the resulting salad with homemade mayonnaise. Place the salad on a plate. Garnish with crayfish tails, halved capers and cherry tomatoes and chicken lanspeak.

Place the grilled chicken fillet on top of the salad. On the fillet - an egg cut into wedges. Garnish with balsamic caramel.

Chicken Lanspeek: Warm chicken broth dissolve the soaked sheet gelatin, salt, pepper to taste, pour into the molds and refrigerate. Cut the frozen lanspeak into small cubes.

Olivier with chicken breast and poached egg (Alena Solodovichenko, chef at Kompot cafe)

A. Podgornykh

Ingredients:
Boiled potatoes - 40 g
Chicken smoked breast- 60 g
Fresh frozen peas - 30 g
Pickled cucumber - 25 g
Fresh cucumber - 25 g
Boiled carrots - 35 g
Green onions - 5 g
Homemade mayonnaise - 35 g
Chicken egg - 1.5 pcs.
Sour cream 20% - 20 g
Lemon fresh - 5 g
Salt - 2 g
Dill - 3 g

How to cook:
Blanch the green peas. Boiled potatoes, fresh and pickles, cut the carrots into cubes. Finely chop the half of the egg. Smoked chicken breast cut into cubes. Mix everything and season with mayonnaise and sour cream.

Put the salad on a plate in a slide, sprinkle with dill and chopped green onions... Put the poached egg on top, cut slightly so that the yolk flows out.

For poached eggs, add a couple of drops to boiling water table vinegar for better protein clotting, stir, make a funnel, stir for about a minute. Then funnel the egg and cook for 3 minutes.