And in today's material - a guide to Madrid.

Snack

In Madrid, dirty taverns coexist with Michelin restaurants. For a street photographer, this city is the perfect place. But it's best not to take your camera with you. Anyway, taking away the best feelings from Madrid is possible only in the form of memories. Embark on a typical spanish bar de viejos(bar for the elderly) - a classic institution with a simple interior, low prices and the most delicious food where the owner usually stands behind the counter.

Coffee and bokata will cost no more than €2.5 (in any other coffeeshop you will pay €5–8 for the same set). You won't find an atmosphere like these bars anywhere else. This Madrid is the real one, where you see different people harmoniously coexisting, and you will find out what la vida cotidiana is - daily Spanish life.

You can also go to any churrería and taste the local sweets churros and porras with coffee or hot chocolate. In such places, old people from neighboring houses gather for breakfast. Usually everyone already knows each other, and the owners quickly distribute breakfasts to friends, discussing the latest news along the way.

One of the most famous places with churros is Chocolateria San Gines (Pasadizo de San Gines, 5) in the center. It has been operating since the end of the 19th century, the walls are hung with photographs of celebrities who dined here. However, the chance to meet someone from the TV in person is also extremely high.

Here you can cut your favorite jamon and ask to pack it in a vacuum (if you want to take it with you on a plane). There is a bar directly opposite the counter. Here the audience is even more motley, many tourists drop by. Perhaps at the central points you will even be spoken to in English. Ask for a carta (menu) and choose Jamón ibérico de bellota, the best jamon (made from black pigs) you can try. If you're on a tight budget, opt for Jamón serrano (from white hogs) - it starts at €20 per kg. The most expensive varieties of jamon reach up to € 300 per kg.

Don't be surprised if you only order a beer and they also serve you a portion of paella or pintxos. In many bars in Spain, tapas is served free of charge with a drink. You don’t need to pay extra for it, but nobody canceled the tip.

Coffee houses

Cafes, restaurants

Spanish cuisine is very diverse and differs from region to region - Galicia, Basque Country, Andalusia, Catalonia, Central. Try to try tapas (especially since you already know its difference from pintxos), which comes from different regions. You're in luck: Madrid has plenty of places to eat functionally. But most people prefer long meals with friends.

Breakfast in some bars is served until 14:00, lunch starts at 14:00-15:00. By 21:00 most of the people of Madrid begin to gather for dinner. The kitchen is closed during the day during siesta hours (approximately from 16:00 to 20:00, winter and summer may vary slightly). But after 20:00 restaurants and bars open their doors to visitors again.

As one madrileno said, Italians meet for coffee and we Spaniards meet for caña or a glass of wine. Spaniards love to drink, but when they drink, they remain very positive and become even more open and cheerful. They climb to hug and kiss (no matter what gender they know), sing and dance and do not start fights. It is difficult to meet aggressive people in Madrid.

Changing several establishments during the evening is in the spirit of the Spanish tradition. The evening usually begins with tapas and an aperitif in one place and continues with dinner in another. Around one in the morning, many go to drink cocktails. On weekends, the center of Madrid does not sleep until 7-8 in the morning.

bar cock (Calle Reina, 17). This bar is a traditional English gentlemen's club. The place is more like a museum in dark colors with very high ceilings and a large fireplace filled with fresh flowers. Near the toilet, a glass shelf has been preserved from ancient times for a certain kind of entertainment.

Cock is the reverse side of another institution - Museo Chicote (Gran Vía, 12) known to locals for its celebrity visitors. In Hemingway's time, intellectuals, poets and politicians, financiers, bullfighters and celebrities looked into Cock. After several hours spent at the Museo Chicote, the men, leaving their companions, moved along the passage to Cock in order to have fun in the company of prostitutes.

Such famous personalities as Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra, Audrey Hepburn, Samuel Bronston, Eisenhower, John Wayne rested here. Depending on the time of day, the price of a cocktail at Cock varies. The same daiquiri can be tasted here for €7 or €11. The prices for drinks are indicated on a sign next to the entrance, where the head waiter stands and greets guests. If you go to this bar, don't forget to dress up a little.

Mercado de La Reina (Gran Vía, 12)- This bar is located on the main street of Gran Vía. You can also enter this institution from the side of Reina street, where you will find yourself in a bar connected to Mercado de La Reina - Gin Club (Calle Reina 16). Reina is a street known for its elegantly designed bars. This place offers a variety of gin cocktails to choose from. The part of the bar closer to Gran Vía is noisier. On this side, people hang out at the bar. There are tables on the side of Reina street, and you can sit in a more relaxed atmosphere.

This appropriate place, if you are not looking for crazy adventures, but just intend to discuss something over a cocktail with a friend.

A popular bar-restaurant in the Chueca area is Frida (calle San Gregorio, 8) suitable for lovers of health-food and bars in the style of Barcelona. For €5-15 you can have a bite to eat or a good lunch. Be sure to come here for a pre-party cocktail. Tropical motifs in the interior create a relaxed atmosphere.

Ojala (calle San Andres, 1) is a hipster-gay-friendly restaurant next to Plaza del Dos de Mayo. The ground floor of the room is made in emerald tones. The walls are decorated with beautiful illustrations, and garlands with green plants hang from the ceiling. The basement floor is a beach lit by disco lights. About ten low tables are placed on the sand. Multi-colored lights and sand create a party atmosphere near the sea. This is definitely one of the best places to hang out in the city center. A delicious brunch at Ojala can be purchased for as little as €7–12.

Bosco de Lobos (Calle Hortaleza, 63) – Italian restaurant downtown. This place belongs to the College of Architects, so it is not surprising that everything here is tastefully done. Bosco is a terrace surrounded by a garden, one of the best in Madrid. The lunch menu in this restaurant can be tried for €15. Dinner for two will cost you €50–80.

Sobrino de Botin (Calle de los Cuchilleros, 17). The oldest of the currently operating restaurants in the world, in which Goya himself worked as a waiter. Prices, of course, correspond - a drink will cost € 25-30.

La Pescaderia (Calle de la Ballesta, 32). If you want to dine at this place (especially on weekends), make a reservation in advance. This is one of the few restaurants in Madrid where you need to book a table. Worth trying classic Spanish tomato soup Salmorejo and anchovies, so loved by the Spaniards. This restaurant has a great selection. fish dishes. There is also a cozy modern interior. Dinner for two with tapas and dessert will cost €60–70.

Dinner at Dray Martina (Calle Argensola, 7) with tapas, main course and dessert for two will cost about €60–80. Order Salmorejo and tartar de salmon, you can't go wrong.

Maricastana (Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 12). Come to this bar & kitchen for a cup of coffee or a snack. Try patatas alioli, huevos rotos and croquettes. Maricastaña serves delicious tacos with guacamole and empanadas with cheddar and arugula, as well as a Galician beef burger with jamon and goat cheese. You can go here for brunch from 11:00 to 16:00 (€ 20).

Jardin de Salvador Bachiller (El Jardin SB) is a secret terrace on Montera street. In order to get here, you need to go to the clothing and accessories store and take the elevator to the fourth floor of the house. Below, near the store, there is no sign or sign, so only those visitors who know about this cafe in advance get here. Jardín is a small oasis on one of the busiest streets in the city. Swings are set in the depths of a small green garden. This cafe is perfect for dates. The lunch menu from 13:00 to 16:00 costs €16 and the weekend brunch €20. The café also offers a wide selection of teas.

Inexpensive gastrobar Merimee (Fuencarral, 61) located on one of the central streets of Madrid - Fuencarral. In this place a good choice tapas and reasonable prices.

Big city with lots of restaurants. Not easy to find good restaurant and avoid falling into the tourist trap. Here are a few places to visit when you visit Madrid.

1 Chocolateria San Gines

When you're craving something sweet, you need to try churros. Churros are fried custard sticks that need to be dipped in chocolate. Chocolateria San Gines is a cafe that has been making churros since 1894. You can enjoy the dish both inside the establishment and at a table outside. Be prepared for the fact that there are always a lot of people here and you will have to stand in line before enjoying the excellent taste of churros.

Price: 6 churosses with one cup of chocolate will cost you 4 euros, separately a cup of chocolate -2.60

Telephone: +34 913 65 65 46

Bookingtable: [email protected]

Hourwork: around the clock

2 LA MI VENTA

Having been in Spain, you must try paella at least once. So head to La Mi Venta for dinner. This is a very cozy and pleasant restaurant with excellent service. The paella here is just amazing. large quantity fresh seafood. Almost all dishes in the restaurant are designed for two persons.

Price: on average, for example, sliced ​​jamon + salad + paella (served for two persons) = 53 euros

Telephone: +34 915 59 50 91

Bookingtable: www.lamiventa.es

Clockwork: Sun. - Sat. (from 13:00 to 16:30 / from 20:00 to 23:30)

Plaza Marina Espanola 7, 28013 Madrid, Spain

3 El Viajero

If you are in the La Latina area, stop by El Viajero for lunch. Alternatively, order a burger with brie cheese, caramelized onions and mushrooms, Iberian ham croquettes or crispy chicken. This place is especially attractive in the warm season, as the restaurant has a terrace. It is worth coming here with a large company to drink beer or wine. The place is very noisy and always crowded, but it's worth it.

Price: for example, ham croquettes + salad + burger = 17.4 euros

Telephone: +34 913 66 90 64

Clockwork: Sun. (from 11.30 to 00:00); Tue-Thu (from 12:30 to 01:00); Fri. (from 12:30 to 01:30); Sat. (11:30 - 02:00)

Plaza Cebada 11 | Barrio La Latina, 28005 Madrid, Spain

4 Taberna del Chato

If you want to try good tapas, head to the small and cozy tapas bar, Taberna del Chato. All tapas are served in small glasses called chatos. Try some tapas, as there are different types, such as tuna tartar or steak tartar. We recommend that you definitely visit this restaurant to enjoy excellent tapas and good service.

Price: an average of 16 euros per person (for four courses, one dish 4 euros)

Telephone: +34 915 23 16 29

Clockwork: Tue-Thu (from 19:00 to 01:00); Fri. (19:00 to 02:00) ;Sat. (from 19:00 to 02:30); Sat-Sun (from 12:30 to 16:30)

Calle Cruz 35, 28012 Madrid, Spain

5 Mercado de San Miguel

If you are going to Madrid, you must visit the Mercado de San Miguel market. This is an indoor market where you can not only shop, but also eat delicious food. Here you can taste tapas, sweets, ham and other local dishes, washed down with sangria, wine or cava (Spanish champagne). This is a great place to have lunch. There are so many delicious meals that it is difficult to choose something specific.

Price: for example, tapas with red fish, cod liver or octopus from 1.00 to 3.5 euros, and of course the prices will depend on how much and what you want to eat.

Telephone: +34 915 42 49 36

Clockwork: Sun.-Wed. (from 10:00 to 00:00); Thu. -Sat. (from 10:00 to 02:00)

Plaza de San Miguel | San Miguel, 28005, Madrid Madrid, Spain

1. Of course, pass by jamon impossible, he's just around every corner. I won’t say that it is strikingly different from the one we sell, but the risk of running into a poor jamon is still lower here. Well, firstly, it's delicious :) And if it's also on warm toasted bread, poured with olive oil, - wow!

Jamon is practically in any cafe in the city, not to mention numerous shops, markets and supermarkets. We started our first morning in Madrid with just such a sandwich with jamon in the wonderful cafe Serafina cocina bar (thanks to the reader who recommended it!) on Calle de Espoz y Mina, 4. A very good place, in the very center, without any cranberries. Breakfast with coffee or tea and such a sandwich cost 3.75 euros there.

In addition, shops are scattered throughout the city. "jamon museums" the Museo del Jamón networks. We were in the one on Carrera San Jeronimo 6, he has the only one from the network good rating. Here you can buy cuts of any kind of jamon, and have a bite to eat in their canteen, having fun (or not very much, depending on your mood) pushing your elbows with other people. The menu has absolutely everything: soups such as gazpacho, meat, fish, sandwiches, tea and coffee, etc.

Here in the "museum" I did not like jamon so much. Apparently, they cut just some kind of cheap one there. But a huge bocadillo ("sandwich" in Spanish) with jamon costs about one and a half euros. Cheap and cheerful. And if you're lucky, you'll also talk to some Spanish pensioner. With us, the Spanish grandfather tried very hard to discuss something burning. Dont Speech Spanish! But abla Espanyol! Where there. So they had breakfast, under an indignant and incomprehensible monologue in Spanish. It must be something about the government.

Where to find: everywhere, from cafes to shops
How much is: a sandwich with jamon costs from 1 euro, cutting - around a few euros per 100 g, depending on the variety, etc.

2. Churros with hot chocolate. One of the best ways to start a new day in Madrid is to have breakfast at the famous (but not losing ground in terms of quality!) Chocolatería San Ginés on Pasadizo de San Gines 5, in the heart of the old city. Churros are sticks fried in oil. choux pastry, which are usually dipped in hot chocolate. There are also porros (porras) - everything is the same, only the stick itself is much thicker. Fatty, high in calories, but delicious! And very satisfying. After such a breakfast, you can safely walk until lunch :)

Where to find: Chocolatería San Gines at Pasadizo de San Gines 5
How much is: a portion of churros with hot chocolate about 4 euros

3. Jamon with melon. Here in Italy they eat prosutto e melone, and in Spain - melón con jamón. To be honest, Italian prosciutto goes better with tender melon, while jamon has a sharp and brutal taste, which interrupts the melon. But delicious nonetheless.

Where to find: in cafes and tapas bars, or in the same ham museum
How much is: about 4-5 euros

4. Tapas! That is, small snacks, often in the form of sandwiches, with a variety of additives: cheese, sausage, fish, jamon, various pates, even pieces of tortilla are put on bread. One plate of assorted tapas can be enough even for two - mainly due to bread, of course.

Here is such a huge plate (it was really huge, you can’t see the scale in the photo!) with various tapas in the Taberna Malaspina tapas bar on C. Cádiz, 9 (center) cost about 10 euros. All the specialties of Madrid are collected here at once: jamon, and chorizo ​​sausage, and sheep's cheese Manchego, and dried cod (vacalao salazon), and even a strange russian salad - something like Olivier with a bunch of mayonnaise - which for some reason is very popular in Spain . The portion is really huge, we couldn’t even overpower it to the end.

But these tapas are already more, so to speak, refined. This is another tapas bar, Lateral, which we really liked. The cuisine here is modernized traditional, with different author's twists. There are several Lateral establishments in the city, and we were in the one on C. de Velázquez, 57 (Salamanca district). The place is very popular, especially in the middle of the day when the locals come for lunch. A plate of assorted tapas for two costs 16 euros.

Where to find: in the tapas bars of the city
How much is: one tapa can cost 1-2 euros, assorted plate - from 10 euros

5. Tortilla (omelet with potatoes and onions). I won’t say that it’s a must try, but it’s still necessary once, the most famous dish, after all. Moreover, in some places tortilla is found really very tasty - mainly due to various additives. This is, for example, a tortilla with caramelized onions in Lateral (2.70 euros a small piece)

Where to find: in any tapas bar. Even in Madrid, not far from the center, there is Pez Tortilla, which specializes in croquettes and tortillas with different types fillings. Address: C/Pez, 36
How much is: portioned piece about 2-3 euros

6. Well, drink it all with what? That's right, sangria! Even in November it was still quite warm in Madrid, so cold sangria became our main drink :)

Where to find: in almost any institution, as well as in the San Miguel market, where sangria is poured simply into glasses
How much is: from 1 euro for a glass in the market to 6-7 euros for a jug in an institution

7. By the way, about the San Miguel market in Plaza San Miguel. We went there for sangria and pintxos. Pinchos are a type of tapas, small snacks for one bite, served on toothpicks. I liked pinchos much more than regular tapas. There is one solid filling, most often without bread, and it is very convenient to eat. In fact, they belong to the Basque cuisine, but they are eaten throughout Spain. I really liked eating pintxos at the San Miguel market: you poke your finger at everything you like, pay, take your plate, grab a glass of sangria on the way - and the divine snack is ready :)

Where to find: in tapas bars or in the San Miguel market
How much it costs: 1-2 euros

8. Sandwich with fried squid- bocadillo de calamares. Typical Madrid street food. I never would have guessed, but it turned out to be delicious! Fresh crispy bun, fried squid in batter, tomato sauce- we ate our bocadillos on both cheeks!

Where to find it: Squid sandwiches are sold everywhere, from street food stalls to bars and cafes. By the way, there is the iconic El Brillante hot spot near the Atocha railway station with these sandwiches, but from the street it looked so terrible that we didn’t dare to go there: D
How much it costs: depending on the size of the sandwich and the "level" of the institution - from 2 to 6 euros

9. All kinds potato croquettes with different fillings . How more interesting stuffing- so much the better, after all, about ordinary potato croquettes, we ourselves have a mustache. These are, for example, very tasty croquettes with cheese and cuttlefish ink in a good tapas bar Taberna Kaixo on C. Barcelona, ​​12 (center)

Well, or all with the same jamon - in the trendy Mercado de la Reina bar on C. Gran Vía, 12

Where to find: in any tapas bar
How much: about 4-5 euros

10. Patatas bravas. deep fried potatoes, garlic Sause aioli and spicy tomato. Well, delicious, of course :)

Where to find: everywhere. Especially famous for its patatas bravas tapas bar Docamar on C. Alcalá, 337, but it is located quite far from the center in an unremarkable area. In general, it makes sense to go there only if you have a lot of free time)
How much: 2-3 euros a portion

11. If you thought that in Madrid they eat only meat and potatoes, then this is not entirely true :) Fish and seafood that are brought to the capital from Spanish maritime cities, there is also enough in the city. Shrimps (gambas) and langoustines (langostinos) under different sauces, all kinds of fish - you must try, everything is fresh and tasty.

Shrimps in batter

Where to find: in any tapas bars and cafes
How much it costs: such a plate of langoustines fried with olive oil and garlic cost about 7 euros

12. Or, let's say, Galician octopus (Pulpo a la Gallega). When you find yourself in that Galicia, and here it is in Madrid, it’s no worse :) In Madrid, there are not so many Madrid dishes at all, but here you can find any food from all over Spain

Where to find: in a cafe with Spanish cuisine
How much: about 10 euros

13. And when the stomach gets tired of fried and spicy, it's time to try soups. For instance, Andalusian salmorejo - puree soup from tomatoes, garlic, bread, olive oil- similar to gazpacho. Served cold with chopped jamon. Very tasty, especially if you're lucky with the right place.

Where to find it: in a Spanish restaurant, such as Mercado de la Reina on C. Gran Vía, 12
How much: 3-6 euros

14. Green peppers from Padron (Pimientos de Padron). Very tasty and unusual appetizer. Small peppers with a delicate and fresh taste, grilled and sprinkled with salt. If you like normal bell pepper, then these peppers should be liked.

Where to find it: Spanish cafes and tapas bars
How much: 4-6 euros

15. Eat olives. Often they are brought as a compliment, and if they don’t bring them, order them anyway. For some reason, those Spanish olives that reach us are completely different. Olives in all establishments are different (many pickle them on their own) - but they are always very juicy and terribly tasty! I miss Spanish olives almost the most.

Where to find: everywhere
How much: 2-3 euros a plate

16. Chorizo ​​and fuet sausages. Chorizo ​​is a very tasty pork sausage with paprika and spices. I think anyone will like it. Here is a fuet - already a little for an amateur, she has a very peculiar smell :)

Where to find: as part of tapas, cuts in bars, or just buy a whole sausage in a vacuum package in any store
How much it costs: a whole sausage about 1-2 euros per 100 g

17. Manchego sheep cheese. Typical Castilian cheese. Very rich and mature taste, somewhat similar even to parmesan.

Where to find: as part of tapas and sandwiches, cuts in cafes or just in stores
How much: 1-2 euros per 100 g

18. And this is my biggest disappointment. Baked Segovia suckling pig. Cochinillo de Segovia. The most Castilian dish of all Castilian dishes. When I read reviews about him, I met the most polar opinions: from "who has not eaten a Segovia pig, he has not been to Castile" to "complete nonsense." Naturally, I became interested in trying it myself.

What can I say?.. Delicious. Good meat never tastes bad, especially young pork. But completely normal. I could eat such meat anywhere, and even cook it myself at home. Especially for 18-20 euros (the average price of a portion of a Segovia pig). Even pork rinds, which were served as an appetizer, I liked more. All in all, a downright touristy dish that doesn't live up to all that bloated attention. Another disadvantage is that the Segovia pig is most often served in rather pretentious, expensive-rich places. We were in Asador Real at Plaza de Isabel II, 1. At first, we sat in fear, it was so quiet, pretentious and scary to drop the fork, but after a bottle of cider and cracklings it became more cheerful :)

Where to find: it’s better not to, but if you still want to, then you need to look for places that specialize in the Segovia pig. For example, Asador Real at Plaza de Isabel II, 1
How much it costs: a portion for one 17-18 euros, for two - 25-30 euros

19. Spanish cider. Spaniards respect cider no less than the French. I won’t say that it’s something like that, but Spanish cider is very pleasant and tasty, especially if you like this drink in principle.

Where to find: in ciderries, cafes, or just buy a bottle in the store
How much: from 2 to 10 euros depending on the brand and location

20. Red wine from Rioja. Very tasty, rich, tart, and if it’s also for meat, it’s generally a beauty.

They pour it almost everywhere, but on my own I would especially recommend the tapas bar Mercado de la Reina on C. Gran Vía, 12. A very popular and trendy place among both locals and tourists. Noise, din, people everywhere. Here, all this seething of Madrid night life is especially acutely felt.

Where to find: in any cafe/bar in Madrid
How much: about 2-4 euros per glass

21. Dark Spanish vermouth. The second thing after olives that I miss incredibly. I don’t know how they make it, but this vermouth is nothing like the Martini-type badya that they sell here (and I didn’t see the dark one either, only light and pink). Unsweetened, rich taste with hints of Coca-Cola and whiskey. And in a glass - an olive. Incredibly delicious! I met two types: this Zarro and homemade vermouth, homemade is even tastier. I really regret that I did not buy a bottle of this Zarro in the store home.

22. Anise liqueur, usually Chinchon brand- typically Madrid alcoholic drink. Sambuca lovers will love it.

Both can be tasted in one very cozy bar on Gran Via.

Anna Iris Simon handed over the passwords and appearances of the best budget street food in the Spanish capital.

Include only establishments where prepare food;
- Skip a variety of pastry shops and obvious fast food chains like McDonald's or KFC;
- choose locations within the city center.

EL PARAISO DEL JAMON

Where? Calle San Bernardo, 8
What to order? Ham sandwich

It seems that this institution was mothballed in the form in which it once existed in the last century. The classic interior of Spain of the 70s, the appropriate smell, napkins are scattered on the floor, the chefs know all the local customers by face and by name, and a young lady from the Almodovar film is resting in the corner.

Fortunately for us, prices have also been frozen: in addition to the very cheap Menu of the Day, you can take, for example, a sandwich with jamon, salami or spicy chorizo ​​sausages for € 1.70. And even despite the fact that the toppings in a sandwich will be many times less than a Spanish granny would put, you will have enough to refresh yourself and not go broke.

D.O.N.O.S.O.

Where?Calle Donoso Cortes, 90
What to order?Burger

The legendary burger joint opened in 1973. In addition to the main one, there are two more locations: on Calle de la Cruz, 26 and calle de Meléndez Valdes, 55. All three locations offer a €1.90 burger, a great alternative to McDonald's. Don't expect too much from him: he is unlikely to be the best in your life and, most likely, will not look like a juicy burger from the picture. But is that what you think about when you're in austerity mode?

ROYAL KEBAB

Where?Paseo de las Delicias, 119
What to order?Shawarma or wings with potatoes

There are a great many "royal" and not so kebabs scattered around the city, but we advise you to pay attention to this one. And here's why: shawarma for € 1.95. This price is valid only for takeaway, but if you still want to sit down and pay due attention to dinner, you can always sit on the terrace.

For the same modest money, you can take a portion of wings with potatoes. And the Broaster Chicken with Sauce and Potatoes will be another 45 cents cheaper.