If you are tormented by nostalgia for the past vacation, Asian cuisine, for curry tasted in Goa, or if you really want to taste the hummus that you last ate at a restaurant on the Red Sea, then you should go to Miklouho-Maklaya Street. Perhaps this is the only place in Moscow where authentic Asian and Oriental dishes are prepared.

The campus of the Peoples' Friendship University of Russia is a famous place in the capital. And not only because of their students, but also because of their cuisine. In the basements and on the first floors of the hostels there are cafes offering various exotic dishes to guests. It is not surprising, because many young people from Asia and the Middle East live and study in RUDN University - they don’t eat borscht.

But not only students make up the audience of ethnic cafes, gourmets from all over the city come here, and local residents often drop in for lunch and dinner. Fortunately, the prices are student, and the quality is excellent.

In an inconspicuous basement is perhaps the most famous of the cafes in RUDN - "Devi". It is framed in best traditions roadside restaurants: flimsy tables, shabby chairs. Plates and artificial flowers are displayed on white and burgundy tablecloths. But don't rush to leave. After all, the homeliness of the atmosphere is more than compensated the highest quality service and low prices. Indian staff will feed you with such delicious national dishes that you will remember for a long time.

You can get lost in the menu of this cafe. Huge sections are devoted to vegetarian dishes, but this does not mean that meat-eaters will not be interested here. The second half of the menu is for them.

Various vegetable and cheese balls, fried pies with potatoes and peas - samosa; vegetarian cutlets, fried with spices chickpeas. Hot dishes here are represented by all kinds of curries, both based on vegetables or legumes, as well as from chicken or other meat. By the way, it is chicken meat that is best represented on the menu, there are very few other types, such as lamb or pork.

From sweet - various laddu and gulab jamun (fried sweet balls made from chickpea or other flour). The fried ice cream is especially popular.

As for drinks, they offer masala chai, as well as green and black varieties of tea that are familiar to us.

The portions are quite large, if you add rice to the curry, it turns out very satisfying. So young students may well save money and take a hot meal for two.

The dishes in this cafe are, of course, spicy and quite spicy. But still adapted to Russian taste, the amount of spices in them is optimal in order to feel the zest of Indian cooking and get pleasure from food. They say that they can do everything for real if the guests ask.

The audience in "Devi" is quite decent, albeit motley. Students, Moscow Indians, residents of nearby houses. As I understand it, many of them constantly go to RUDN for lunch when they are too lazy to cook.

In the next house - they offer Lebanese cuisine. By the way, this direction is the most popular on campus. "Campus", "Beirut", "City" - they all cook both Arabic and European dishes. In the cafe "Beirut", which is next to "Devi", the situation is completely different. It looks like teahouses that have bred in Moscow. Patterned fabrics, sofas, hookah, rich curtains and carpets... And the audience here is completely different - no longer students and just dressed visitors, in the evenings there are big boys and glamorous girls, and during the day there is a working and business atmosphere, business meetings are held. True, in Arabic.

The interior of the cafe "Beirut" Photo: AiF Oddly enough, the prices here are lower than in a simple "Devi". And the kitchen is no better. Excellent kebabs. Wonderful hummus, or rather hommus, as the Arabs call it, kebabs, tabouleh salads, spicy eggplant bakbanush, many sandwiches with national flavor, and of course, sweets. There are very few Arabic ones, but they are worth a separate mention, they simply ooze with honey and an unforgettable oriental aroma.

In addition to these cafes, there are many others in RUDN University. There is a restaurant "Avenue" with Ethiopian cuisine, "Dionis" where you can try Mexican and Peruvian cuisine, a cafe "Podium" with inter national cuisine, the cafe "Galileo" offers Russian, Caucasian and Lebanese dishes.

Fans of cooking an exotic dish at home will also not regret a trip to Belyaevo. Indeed, on the territory of RUDN University there is a store "Indian spices". This is one of the chain stores and probably the best. There is a very rich choice here, however, as in a store on Sretenka, for example, but here it is self-service. And you can calmly examine all the spices and pastes, read the composition of mixtures, study Ayurvedic cosmetics, and not convulsively think about what you need and whether you forgot what, reading the list to the saleswoman.

In "Indian spices" you can buy ingredients not only for Indian dishes, but also components for Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese and other oriental cuisines. For a long time it was practically the only place in Moscow where there was asafoetida and real basmati rice, now, of course, spices are sold in many places, but the choice here is still excellent.

Any systematic glutton has a dream - that the most interesting eating establishments:
1) were located en masse
2) compact
3) were authentic
4) moderately cost

Strange as it may seem, but in Moscow there is such a place - the dormitory area of ​​the Peoples' Friendship University of Russia, the Russian University of Peoples' Friendship named after Patrice Lumumba.

Numerous sons and daughters of various countries and continents studying here, including wildly from our eyes, exotic countries and continents, longing for their homeland, at one time began to spontaneously collect various food stalls - in order to eat at home and maintain contact with the Diaspora.
There are many diasporas - and there are a lot of cafes.

Where are these cafes located? Yes, right where they live - among typical high-rise dormitory buildings, on Miklukho-Maklay Street, opposite the educational building

Dormitories always look gray.
(the flag of Syria is on the windowsill. Bashar-Assad Syria, it is necessary to clarify, given modern features)

But here this dullness is instantly smeared

Here are the Arabs

Simbad, as you might guess, also

Lebanese cuisine

Beirut - another Lebanese

Markov's courtyard - .
Wow, I'll get to the local one somehow!

"Picasso" is also famous for serious discounts for motorcyclists.

"Campus" - a gathering place for different diasporas, the largest institution on the territory, occupies an entire floor

Open, summer areas for tables are made right under the windows

Needless to say - all the food here is original. Because it is being prepared by people from the diaspora and for the diaspora - who knows, and compatriots will figure it out quickly if something is cheated - and the competition here is great, word of mouth will not spare anyone

And inexpensive - because the vast majority of consumers are students.

And what do students earn, only if you are not the crown African prince, everyone knows this

By the way, relatively few people come here from outside

Despite the fact that the territory is free to visit, there are no fences or obstacles

The location may affect - the Belyaevo / Yugo-Zapadnaya metro station is not the center, it’s quite far from the metro stations, there are no distinct sights nearby - you need to go on purpose, you won’t wander here by chance

During school hours, all these numerous cafes work like galley slaves (I ask without ethnic insinuations)

And in the summer, when the sessions are over and the students have left for the holidays, the dead season - they work most often at zero and passionately want Muscovites and other locals to drop in on them.
Which, however, are always expected anyway - after all, the Peoples' Friendship University

In short, if we talk about a place for gluttons, then here is one of the most magnificent enclaves in all

One thing is traditionally difficult - I want to try everything at once, but the stomach is not dimensionless

I, the popular blogger Gaydamak, and my faithful gluttonous companion, the popular blogger Varandey varandej , first went to the "Avenue" - one of the oldest and legendary places.

Moscow is still not New York or London, no matter how passionately we wish it. No matter how a new place with “ethnic” cuisine opens, it immediately becomes clear that the authors tried very hard, but there are still Moscow traffic jams outside the window, and not China or Ethiopia. Any restaurant in the center is a vivid confirmation of this. The more exotic the cuisine, the higher the prices. And it doesn't matter that the food in this restaurant is different from the one that could be prepared in the country itself - the main thing is that the interior and the names of the dishes are similar. It looks like it's not all right. This is where we all would despair, but there is an st.m. "Belyaevo", where I forget that I'm in Moscow - but what's there, in Russia. This is the area of ​​the Peoples' Friendship University of Russia and adjacent hostels.

20 minutes on foot or by car in the direction of the Vityaz cinema - and you come across stylish Africans, Japanese, Chinese, and there are so many of them, and they are all so fashionable, alien, cool! I remember there was a mulatto woman with packages from some Pyaterochka, in a simple plush suit and jewelry - she looks like a model. How do they do it?? Walk two steps, turn into the courtyard with an exhibition model of a Russian hut - and the restaurants begin. I love Arabic cuisine, these are various salads, meat, baba ganouge, hummus, but not only are they excellently cooked in Belyaev cafes National dishes, even ordinary fish or, say, Adjarian khachapuri (in case you suddenly change your mind about trying Arabic cuisine), they cook amazingly tasty. I recommend cafes "Beirut" and "Campus" (especially the last one).

As we all know, the criterion for the "correctness" of a place with foreign cuisine is the fact that foreigners themselves go there (and do not spit, but come again). It is the presence of Lebanese, Syrians, etc. determines the atmosphere of the establishment. Cafe Campus is a spacious and roomy place in oriental style(there is also a “European” hall, but we didn’t go there with the photographers - ed..), prices - within 400 rubles. per dish (by dish, I mean not three sprigs of lettuce, but, say, meat with a side dish). So, a veal shish kebab with a side dish cost 370 rubles, and a lamb kebab - 320 rubles. Strong alcohol is served only after 20-00, while beer costs around 150 rubles. for 0.5. A cup of tea - 40 rubles, a teapot (400 ml.) - 200 rubles. For the evening it is better to book a table in advance, the demand is very high.

Or, say, the chefs at Chaihona think they know how to cook tabula salad (a salad of parsley, tomatoes and an amazing cereal called bulgur). It’s a pity to disappoint them, but in Lebanon (and I was in Lebanon) and in Belyaevo they cook tabula (170 rubles), and in many other places the chef was just in a creative mood.

What else? Hookah - I'm just afraid of an unprecedented influx of visitors, but it is unlikely that it is more expensive than 500 rubles. Moreover, this is the RIGHT hookah. Well, in addition to all this happiness, in the evening, a beautiful girl will dance a belly dance for you for free (and, importantly, not for long). In the warm season, Campus has a summer terrace in a picturesque corner.

By the way, despite the fact that this is a dormitory area and all cafes were originally for students, decent people (like you and me) go to local cafes. My only complaint is the falafel (250 rubles)! She was very overcooked, although someone may love this. In Israel, for example, she (or he?) has her natural light color. But in the "Campus" they gave her a bunch of mint for some reason. There is also falafel in pita bread (lavash is excellent there, by the way) a smaller portion.

Also on the territory of the dormitories there is a restaurant (although it is loudly said) of Indian cuisine "Devi", which is very close to the "Campus" and this is a charm, what is it. The staff are the sweetest Indians, who do not know Russian very well, but if anything, you can explain yourself with signs.

We took chicken, tomato stuffed with cheese in spicy sauce(heated!), fried ice cream (let's say, for an amateur - 170 rubles), fried apple with ice cream (funny - 170 rubles), two teas, two beers, and then also a large pot of green tea were persuaded, shuddered from spices (yes - there is very spicy food there!) And they gave 1,500 rubles for three. As for the atmosphere - mostly Indian families, a couple of expats with children were also sitting nearby. The Chinese are still there Chinese food is also served. There are TVs on the walls, which broadcast non-stop Indian films with English subtitles and local news. True, there was a slight embarrassment with drinks: the promised ginger was not in the “masala” tea (60 rubles), but condensed milk was present in abundance, and hibiscus was from a bag.

Instead of traditional chewing gum, anise grains with some kind of nuts are given out.

And then we were told by friends how they ordered catering for a wedding in Devi and it turned out very budget.

Next, we looked at Beirut. The interior is a bit like Shesh-Besh, but the prices are 2 times lower. Guests are met there by a very representative Lebanese uncle. Among the guests are very popular hookahs - 200 - 500 rubles. There were not many people at 7 pm on Saturday, but best tables have already been booked.

We liked the kebab with a side dish (260 rubles) and the cheese cake (180 rubles), but the ice cream with strawberries (190 rubles) was not very good, but there are other places in Moscow for the “correct” ice cream, in Eventually. We add two beers and one coffee latte, in total we got - 1000 rubles.

Beyanetu, kau-kau, ahi de gallina, chao-fa and fyrfyr - the names of dishes from Ethiopian, Peruvian and a couple of dozen other cuisines at first seem to be a set of slurred sounds. Exactly until the moment you find yourself in one of the national cafes of the RUDN campus.

You can try exotic dishes from several countries at once in less than a couple of hours. It is enough to come to the campus of the Peoples' Friendship University of Russia, where representatives of hundreds of nationalities from all over the world study, work, fall in love and ... eat.

The location of RUDN can be called compact: on one side of Miklukho-Maklaya street there are educational buildings, on the other - residential buildings. Here, on a patch of eight hectares, live students from 152 countries, representing 450 nations and nationalities. That is why there is no doubt about the authenticity of the local dishes: people from different countries they cook for their own compatriots, who cannot be fooled by a beautiful picture on the menu. In the menu, by the way, there may not be any pictures at all: those who come simply know what they are coming for. And unlike national restaurants in the city center, prices in RUDN University are very moderate.

Entrance to the fenced area of ​​the campus is free, gates come across every hundred meters. But then it’s better to continue the path in the company of an experienced guide, since by the names of cafes, such as “City”, “Avenue” or “Dionysus”, you will never guess what kind of cuisine they offer.

The tour of the student cafes, which is organized by the Travel Store company, is of a tasting nature - and that's good. So, in one sitting, you can see several different establishments at once, and then, if you wish, return to the one you like.

Magic East

The first cafe that lies in the way of sightseers is an Arabic cafe with a completely non-Arabic name "City". And if from the outside the institution does not betray itself in any way - no ornaments, no multi-colored lamps above the entrance - then inside all this is in abundance. Cozy sofas with pillows, lamps with shades, oriental motifs in the patterns on the walls and paintings, the smell of food - all this is somewhat relaxing at first.

However, the task of the guide is not just to feed people, but also to tell something interesting: after all, the purpose of the tour is not so much gastronomic as educational.

RUDN University campus. Cafe City. Photo: Ekaterina Zel / Strana.ru

A professional guide Irina helps to learn about the culture, traditions and, of course, the cuisine of different countries, who, while everyone is waiting for the first dish on the agenda, tells about the history of the countries of the Middle East and what is the peculiarity of this or that cuisine. Well, then the game "Close your eyes - open your mouth" begins. Tourists, in most cases, have no idea what they are trying, and try to guess what components the treat consists of.

For example, in falafel - a traditional variant for the East hot appetizer- someone tasted fish, and someone - potatoes. In fact, it turned out that falafel is vegetable cutlets made from chickpeas, beneficial features which have been known since ancient Rome. Falafel is served with vegetables (fresh or pickled) and sesame sauce.

In any institution, a menu is immediately offered, but one must be prepared for the fact that the time to finish the meal and go to another cafe comes quite quickly. The rhythm set by the guide allows you to see more and try more. However, no one canceled a cup of coffee. None of the restaurants on the campus needs advertising: word of mouth works too well. From a captious look, however, the wear and tear of chairs and walls in some of them does not escape, but this once again serves as proof that the local establishments are rarely empty. The owners of the cafe are, as a rule, RUDN University graduates who have been living in Moscow for many years.

RUDN University campus. Cafe City. Falyafel. Photo: Ekaterina Zel / Strana.ru

African passions

One of the most striking examples is the owner of the Ethiopian cafe "Avenue". A graduate of the Faculty of Geology, he has been living in Moscow for thirty years with a Russian wife and three daughters. The employees of the institution are always happy to show African masks, elephant figurines and small tom-toms standing on the shelves. All this is brought by the owner from trips to his homeland. These are not museum exhibits: all items can be touched and photographed. Sofas decorated "under the zebra" add African flavor to the place.

Souvenirs are far from the only thing that the cafe owner brings from Ethiopia. Teff grain flour is something that cannot be imagined in Ethiopian cuisine. Ethiopia is a poor country, there are almost no natural resources in it, and due to the predominance of highlands, there are problems with growing vegetables. In a month, the income of the villagers is about ten dollars per person, in the city - about fifteen. Therefore, it is quite understandable that teff cakes, which are considered the main grain crop in Ethiopia, remain the main and often the only dish for most Ethiopian families.

RUDN University campus. Avenue Cafe. Photo: Ekaterina Zel / Strana.ru

The cake, which is called "ynzhera" (emphasis on "s"), is a multi-purpose. In Ethiopia, there are no cutlery familiar to us, so flour product serves simultaneously as a tablecloth, and a device, and, in fact, food. By the way, teff is the only cereal that does not contain gluten. A natural fear arises: the fear of poisoning with unfamiliar food is often stronger than the desire to try something new. You should not be afraid: firstly, representatives of the sanitary and epidemiological services regularly visit the restaurants of the campus, and secondly, all the owners are very afraid of losing their tidbit on the territory of the RUDN University, so they almost vouch for the quality of the prepared dishes. In addition to the inzhera, which is the basis of all Ethiopian dishes, at the tasting in the "Avenue" tourists are offered tej - Ethiopian honey wine, somewhat reminiscent of our mead, as well as donuts made from rice flour and banana, which are served with hot sauce. Strong alcohol is not sold in restaurants on campus: rules are rules. Maybe that's why the atmosphere everywhere reigns as friendly as possible. In total, there are about twenty cafes on the campus, where, in addition to exotic ones, European cuisine, familiar to Russian taste, is also offered. Except for the Chinese one, where even Chinese tourists or Indian tourists are brought to dine.

Indian spices

The Indian cafe located on the campus is called Devi. Devi, responsible for hospitality, comfort and delicious food, in the Indian pantheon of gods represents the feminine divine principle. If it were not for the Indians at the counter and Ganesh hanging over the entrance, “Devi” could well have been mistaken for a roadside eatery. However, it is believed that in all of Moscow there is no better place to get acquainted with the national cuisine of India.

RUDN University campus. Cafe Devi. Ganesha. Photo: Ekaterina Zel / Strana.ru

On a gastronomic tour from the Travel Store in Devi, sweets with traditional masala tea are offered for tasting: the preparation of other dishes takes time that the tour group does not have. While tea is being prepared, the guide talks about the rich culinary traditions of this, by and large, poor country. For example, about why Indian cuisine is considered one of the most difficult, or about why representatives of some castes are forbidden to eat red foods. The aroma of masala tea is difficult to confuse with something: and right there - a story about him. Tea is a mixture of black tea and spices, the names of which again have to be guessed by the tourists. It is customary to drink tea sweet, so sugar or condensed milk is added to it.

Culinary heritage of the Incas

The cafe of Peruvian cuisine is called in Greek - "Dionysus". In order for visitors to immediately decide on the choice, two menus are offered: black and green. The black menu contains dishes of the usual, European cuisine, in green - Peruvian.

Peru is not much home to potatoes (there are hundreds of them): Peruvians eat animals that we are not used to eating, such as alpacas, llamas and guinea pigs. But this is not why Peruvian cuisine got into the Guinness Book of Records: it is considered the champion in the number of ingredients used. In the course are vegetables, fruits and everything that can be grown and caught.

RUDN University campus. Cafe Dionysus. Tour guide Irina. Photo: Ekaterina Zel / Strana.ruDesign in the "Dionis" in a European restrained, places at the tables at lunchtime weekends - in the afternoon with fire. Couples, families with children, noisy companies come, leafing through some black and some green menus.

RUDN University campus. Cafe Dionysus. Photo: Ekaterina Zel / Strana.ru

Peru is the end point of a small but very rich gastronomic route. If you wish, after the end of the tour, you can stay here and order whatever you want, but for an additional fee. Or you can go to the nearby Indian Spices store and buy not only them, but noodles from Vietnam, olives from Greece or mangoes from Pakistan. The whole world in one plate? Perhaps yes.