Home / Dumplings / Why bird milk cake. The history of the bird's milk cake

Why bird milk cake. The history of the bird's milk cake

Like many "airy" desserts, "Bird's Milk" has existed for no more than a century. It was created in 1936 year in Poland, at the Warsaw confectionery factory “E. Wedel "and released in the form of sweets. They became popular not only at home, but also in other countries.

The creator of the recipe, Jan Wedel, said that they are so airy and delicious, like something out of reach, which is very small, like bird's milk. The recipe for sweets, by the way, is very simple: it is milk soufflé based on whole condensed milk, sugar syrup and gelatin.

In Poland "Ptasie mleczko"- the pride and the most popular sweets, to which the country has exclusive rights, therefore, under this name they are produced only there. The technology is also exclusive and kept secret.

To the Soviet Union"Bird's Milk" sweets came in 20 years later, in 1967, after the government's trip to Czechoslovakia. Returning from her with a sample of sweets, the minister Food Industry in Moscow, he gathered confectioners from the country's leading factories with the task of unraveling the secret of this miracle.

All over the country, work began to boil: confectioners experimented, studied, compared. As a result, the version of the Vladivostok Confectionery Factory became one of the best. There, under the guidance of technologist Anna Chulkova, special conditions were developed: whipping technology, manufacturing temperature.

In 1968, the Moscow confectionery factory "Rot-Front" began to produce them. And mass production was launched in 1975 at the Krasny Luch factory in Moscow.

Interesting Facts:

  • Sweets are the inspiration for the Bird's Milk Cake
  • The first batches of sweets were 35 tons per month!

Creating a fabulous bird's milk cake

This cake is the first in the USSR for which a patent was issued to its creator, pastry chef Vladimir Mikhailovich Guralnik... Hereditary confectioner, at the age of 16 he came to work in the elite Moscow restaurant "Prague".

We can say that Vladimir Guralnik wanted to go beyond the usual and create something special. Having visited the Krasny Luch factory, the pastry chef was impressed by the taste of Bird's Milk. He wanted to create a "big candy", a whole cake with this most delicate and magnificent soufflé.

In 1978 work began on the creation of the famous Soviet cake "Bird's milk" in the restaurant "Prague". Together with Margarita Golova and Nikolai Panfilov, Guralnik spent half a year looking for the ideal recipe and technology.

It was sleepless nights and an intense search: the cakes were cooked, tasted, thrown away, and all over again, many times. Standard recipe did not fit, according to V. Guralnik "on a large volume - marshmallowed with marshmallow, it gets stuck in the teeth!" And I wanted the same airiness.

Success came: the ideal proportions and new components were found. For a cake, unlike sweets, you need whole condensed milk, sugar syrup, agar-agar instead of gelatin, protein mass and butter. The optimum cooking temperature is 117 ° C, so agar agar is ideal for boiling down the filling. Only in this way will the soufflé harden and remain airy!

For the cake, Guralnik chose a semi-muffin dough, tender, light and at the same time thin. And they decorated it succinctly - they covered it with solid chocolate icing and decorated with an ornament with birds. The cake was even shocking at the suggestion of the creator: the rectangular shape at that time was unsettled and attracted attention.

The Firebird, a character of primordially Russian fairy tales, adorned a box with a Soviet cake "Bird's Milk". There was something dear and truly fabulous about it.

The popularity of the "Bird's Milk" cake

The shop of the restaurant "Prague" initially produced trial batches of 20-30 pieces, but after six months the volume increased to 500 pieces, and the queues for the "birdie" lined up at 6 am. You could get the cake by appointment or famous coupons.

Vladimir Guralnik did not make a secret out of the recipe; on the contrary, he generously shared his best practices. It was a real sensation, so by the end of the 80s, the cake was being prepared by other shops throughout the country, about 30 enterprises in total, but it still remained in short supply for residents outside the capital of the USSR.

Today, you can buy a cake at a convenience store or pastry shop. But if you want to feel the same taste, you should still cook this miracle yourself. Moreover, it is not difficult. Try the "Bird's Milk" cake recipe: checked, everything will work out!

Surely, each of you at least once in your life has tried such a wonderful delicacy as sweets or "Bird's milk" cake. If you tried it in early childhood, then over time you might be surprised to find that birds do not give milk, this is the lot of cows, goats and similar animals, but not birds. What's the matter, why exactly " bird's milk"what is the history of the origin of such a name?

The expression "bird's milk" has been known since antiquity. In the comedy of Aristophanes "Birds" milk of birds is mentioned as food of the gods, giving strength and health. Other ancient authors, such as Strabo, Lucian and others, also have references. Bird's milk already in ancient times became a figure of speech and meant a rare, valuable thing. The idea of ​​bird milk did not disappear even in the Middle Ages. In European fairy tales, capricious beauties sent their admirers for bird milk, which they, of course, could not find, and, accordingly, died somewhere along the way, getting lost. In the legends of other peoples, bird's milk gave the hero invulnerability from weapons and diseases. And in the Russian people there has long been a proverb: "The rich have everything, cut the bird's milk." It was believed that since "bird's milk" is an unheard-of rare thing, then only wealthy people can (and even then hardly) possess it, but people of immense luxury were said to have "bird's milk" too.

For the first time, filled sweets reminiscent of the modern "Bird's milk" appeared in 1936 at the Polish factory E. Wedel. The very name "Bird's milk" was invented by the Poles - that's why "bird's milk" is called that. Apparently, implying sophistication, luxury of their sweets. In the USSR, similar sweets began to be produced from the end of the 60s.


"Bird's milk" sweets

In 1978, Vladimir Mikhailovich Guralnik, a pastry chef at the Moscow restaurant Praga, and his colleagues created a cake similar in composition to the bird's milk sweets.


Cake pigeon's milk"

The cake recipe was selected within six months, when we tried to use various ingredients, selected the cooking temperature. In 1982, a patent was issued for the Bird's Milk cake and it was the only cake with a patent in the USSR.


Vladimir Mikhailovich Guralnik, inventor of the "Bird's milk" cake

As it turned out, bird's milk does exist, however, not all birds. For example, pigeons, penguins (imperial), flamingos, goldfinches, crossbills feed their chicks for a short time. In a pigeon, for example, it is excreted in the goiter. The milk of the aforementioned birds resembles liquid cottage cheese.

We continue to introduce you to history famous dishes, and our next "hero" is the Bird's Milk cake. Where did everyone's beloved come from Soviet time goodies are unusual name? Why was there a day in line for dessert, and not every housewife still manages to repeat the original recipe? You will learn all this and much more from our material.

Cake from tender dough with air biscuit layer was released in 1978 and became a real legend of the "Prague" restaurant. The prototype of "Bird's Milk" was the Czechoslovakian sweets "Ptasie Mlechko", which were once tasted by the Minister of Food Industry of the USSR during a business trip. "Do something like this, but by original recipe", - commanded the minister, after which numerous experiments began to find the ideal composition of a new domestic delicacy. Following the candies first prepared in the 60s, it was decided to" conjure "over the cake as well. The merit of its creation belongs to pastry chef Vladimir Guralnik. man forever entered the history of culinary, and, it would seem, with such a rich past now he could work in any of the most expensive confectioneries in Moscow. and creating new culinary masterpieces.

Together with the team, we have been working on the recipe for "Bird's Milk" for over 6 months. I wanted the bottom to be from unusual test: not biscuit, not sandy, not flaky. So a new type of dough was created - a butter-whipped semi-finished product, it is somewhat similar to a cupcake. The filling had to be boiled for a long time: agar-agar has a melting temperature of about 120 degrees, in contrast to gelatin, which curls up already at 100 degrees. The secret of our recipe is precisely in agar-agar - a more expensive and rich substitute for gelatin. They experimented for a long time: they added some ingredients, removed others, brought them to different temperatures - then the syrup turns out, then the viscous mass. Until they found the right consistency, 6 months have just passed,

Once Guralnik told the newspaper "Evening Moscow". In the Soviet years, the "Bird's Milk" cake was a real "king of the tables". For the original cake, sold only in the restaurant "Prague", people stood in line for several hours - a line of those wishing to treat themselves could fill half of the Old Arbat. What real success is, Guralnikov learned when at the metro he was furtively offered coupons for his own creation.

The secret of such success lay not only in the taste of the dessert, but also in its name - in its, so to speak, sacred sense. According to ancient mythology, bird milk is an unprecedented miracle. That which does not really exist, that which the birds of paradise fed their children. "A person who has everything can only dream of bird milk" - this expression again gained popularity in Europe of the XVIII century. And who did not want to possess something fantastic and impossible during the years of deficit in the USSR!

According to one of the legends, once the girls, in order to get rid of annoying gentlemen, sent them to wander through the cities and villages in search of "bird milk". Those, of course, never came back.

Now, leaving for "Bird's Milk" and not returning is an incredible story. The delicacy is presented in almost all confectionery shops in the country. Truth original cake according to the recipe of Vladimir Guralnik, it is exclusively sold only in 10 stores in Moscow. As he himself says, the cakes are delivered there in special branded vans and the taste of this treat cannot be confused with anything.

Guralnik does not hide the secret of making the "Bird's milk" cake:

We pour the whipped protein with agar-agar, then add butter and condensed milk, mix and cool to 80 degrees. Then pour this mass into a mold and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Then it is worthwhile to lay the layers correctly, because "Bird's milk" is a cake-constructor. The dough layer is alternated with an agar-agar layer, and so on again. The dessert is poured over with chocolate.

By the way, chocolate also has its own secret, - says the author. - It must have a certain melting point of 38 degrees, otherwise it will "turn gray" in the refrigerator. And also chocolate, in order for it to be tasty, must be properly kneaded. We have a special machine that continuously interferes with the chocolate.

However, now each confectionery has its own, somewhat different from the original recipe for "Bird's milk". HELLO.RU decided to find out how "Bird's milk" is prepared in the restaurant of Odessa cuisine "Babel". You can definitely repeat this recipe at home!

"Bird's milk" from the restaurant "Babel"Ingredients:

wheat flour 200 gr.

egg yolk 7 gr.

butter 275 gr

soda 1 tsp

sugar 350 gr.

condensed milk

lemon acid

chocolate 150 gr

cream 38%

egg white 7 pcs.

Preparation:

1. Beat butter at room temperature with sugar, add yolks, soda and flour, beat everything with a mixer.

2. Bake the mass at 170 degrees for 15-20 minutes.

3. For the cream, soak the gelatin in half a glass cold water... Add to the water with the swollen gelatin citric acid and sugar. Then beat the whites until firm foam.

4. Separately beat the butter with condensed milk and gradually add to the mixture with whipped whites and gelatin solution. Don't stop whisking.

5. For the glaze, melt the chocolate and add a little butter... Melt everything on small fire and bring to a homogeneous mass.

6. Lay the dessert in layers and pour over the chocolate.

Bon Appetit!

There are ancient legends where birds of paradise fed their chicks with milk, and if a person is lucky enough to taste this milk, he will become invulnerable to any weapon and ailments.

The expression "bird's milk" in many nations means something desirable, unattainable. A Russian proverb says: "The rich have everything, cut the bird's milk." A similar turnover went back to Ancient Greece. So, in the comedy of Aristophanes "Birds" the chorus promises happiness in the form of milk "but not heifers, but birds."
The culinary history of "Bird's Milk" began with sweets.
Back in 1936, Jan Wedel - the owner of the Polish confectionery factory E. Wedel - developed a recipe for amazing sweets, unlike any other confectionery product produced before. These sweets were prepared according to the recipe for marshmallows, only without the addition of eggs: sugar, gelatin, dextrose and flavorings were whipped to a "sponge" state. After that, sweets were formed from the sweet mass and glazed with chocolate. Contemporaries gave the dessert an unambiguous assessment: "He is divine!" and Jan Wedel, listening to these sincere delights, called his culinary creation "ptasie mleczko" ("bird's milk"). The pastry chef reasoned simply: “What else can a person who has everything want? Indeed, only bird's milk. "

The domestic history of "Bird's Milk" began with a trip in 1967 by the Minister of the Food Industry of the USSR to Czechoslovakia, where at one of the receptions he was presented with candies with original filling. Returning to the Soviet Union, the minister gathered representatives of all confectionery industries country, and ordered to develop its own technology for the production of Czechoslovak sweets as soon as possible.
The first who managed to get as close as possible to the original recipe was confectioner Anna Chulkova, who at that time was the chief technologist of the Vladivostok confectionery factory. The technology for making new sweets, called "Bird's Milk", was transferred to other confectionery factories Soviet Union.


It was the Soviet sweets "Bird's Milk" from the "Red October" factory that became the basis for the recipe for the cake with the same name.
A whole team of famous confectioners of the capital worked on the creation of the most delicate dessert - Vladimir Guralnik, who worked in the Moscow restaurant "Prague", Nikolai Panfilov and Margarita Golova.
A group of confectioners under the leadership of the head of the confectionery department of the restaurant "Prague" Vladimir Mikhailovich Guralnik


We experimented for six months using agar-agar instead of gelatin, a jelly-like product obtained from red and brown algae. The pastry chefs strove to make the soufflé solidify, but remain airy. After a persistent search for the ideal recipe, they finally managed to find that combination of ingredients that is still considered classic - the cake filling richly poured with chocolate, decorated on top, also with a small chocolate bird.

Initially, the novelty could only be purchased at the Prague restaurant. “At first, they made 30 pieces a day, then 60, then 600,” recalls Vladimir Guralnik.
This was sorely lacking for Muscovites and guests of the capital. The delicacy was quickly tasted and it made a splash. Such queues lined up behind the cake that they had to be turned around so that people would not block traffic between Kalinin Avenue (now Novy Arbat) and Arbat. Buyers stood for hours by appointment; the smaller queue consisted of the holders of coupons, which the restaurant sold to the “elite” for 3 rubles. (The bird's milk cake itself cost 6 rubles 16 kopecks then.)
Queue to the confectionery department of the restaurant "Prague"


The first experimental commercial batches of "bird's milk" were produced since 1968 at the "Rot-Front" factory. But due to the complex technology, the batches were small, the recipe documentation was not approved by the USSR Ministry of Food Industry.
In September 1980, an application for an invention was filed, and in 1982 the developers of the recipe were issued a copyright certificate for the Bird's Milk cake, No. 925285, where the method of making the dessert was registered, which became an unprecedented precedent for that time. "Bird's Milk" became the first domestic cake, patented by the culinary experts who invented it.
Since that time, the cake "Bird's milk" began to be produced in other cities of the country. The “Bird's milk” cakes produced in different places had different designs, but they corresponded to the original recipe, fixed by the USSR GOST.








The Bird's Milk cake has been considered the hallmark of Moscow from Soviet times to ours. Delicate soufflé, a thick layer of dark chocolate and very thin cakes made this miracle of culinary excellence a sought-after and desired delicacy. Childhood memories kept warm hearth and delight in the sumptuous dessert.










In 2006, Vladimir Guralnik was nominated for the 2006 Public Recognition award and received an award in the Legendary Man category.
In addition to creating the legendary "birdie", over 50 years of work, he has developed and introduced into production 35 branded confectionery products.
Many of them are now produced in all confectionery shops Moscow.


If you are from the USSR, you remember the incomparable taste of "bird's milk" in the form of sweets or cake. The airy white mass melts in the mouth, the chocolate adds additional sweetness with a slight bitterness. It was magical. You are lucky if you find the very product made according to a complex recipe in compliance with all GOSTs. So where did this name come from, because it is known that birds do not have milk. To answer this question, you need to delve deeper into the history of the product.

For the first time, candies with such a filling appeared in Poland in 1936, and they were produced at the E. Wedel factory. They were made almost according to the same recipe as marshmallows, only without eggs. In 1960, similar sweets began to be produced at domestic factories. They made a splash, the delicacy turned out to be so unusual.

In 1978, the following significant tasty event took place - the confectioners of the Moscow restaurant Praga, headed by Vladimir Guralnik, created the Bird's Milk cake according to a similar recipe. Of course, it was different from the candies of the same name, but it was just as good. It took over 6 months to create the cake. Experimenting with ingredients, volumes and temperatures. For example, gelatin has been lured onto agar-agar, a jelly-like product made from red and brown algae. It is this exotic substance that makes the cake so fluffy and airy. By the way, “Bird's milk” cake is the only one for which, during the existence of the USSR, a patent was issued.

The name “Bird's milk” was invented in Poland, where the philosophers of Ancient Greece, in particular Aristophanes and his comedy “Birds”, were revered, where happiness is promised in the form of milk “and not heifers, but birds”.

There are also ancient legends where birds of paradise fed their chicks with milk, and if a person is lucky enough to taste this milk, he will become invulnerable to any weapon and ailments. Perhaps it was this legend that formed the basis of the Russian proverb, which says: "The rich have everything, cut the bird's milk."

And in European fairy tales, evil beauties sent their potential suitors for this very bird's milk. Naturally, the poor fellows had no chance of finding this treasure, and they died in deserts or impenetrable forests.

The citizens of the Soviet Union had their own explanation, they believed that the cake or sweets were called "bird's milk" for delicate taste, price and scarcity, because milk from birds is a rarity.