Represented the Bakers' Association of Ireland at the International Congress

  In his speech, he shared the history of the origin and recipe of Celtic bread. Traditional Irish bread is different from European breads.

It is not made with yeast, but with soda. At the master class, we usually make bread with sour milk,

And in Ireland, we usually make it with buttermilk, which is what's left after churning butter.

We use buttermilk as an acid, and soda as a chemical baking powder.
They neutralize each other - this gives a specific taste.

Why soda and not yeast?

It's all about history. The Roman Empire, when it conquered the British Isles, did not reach Ireland. And they just didn't bring us yeast culture! Later, the British occupied the country for 600 years and did not want the Irish to get rich.

To do this, for example, they adopted a law according to which the land was not inherited from the eldest to the youngest, but was divided among all the children (and then everyone had many children). This division actually impoverished the Irish population.

And the fact of owning flour already spoke of the status of a person - white bread was on the tables only of rich people. The poor ate whole grain bread. We have been baking it for the last 800 years.

Now 40% of bread baked in Ireland is soda.

Every Irishman has his favorite recipe for such bread in stock:
with raisins (traditional) or fresh cherries, with caraway or cinnamon, fruits or nuts.

Despite the fact that the dough for this bread is very dense, after baking soda bread has a porous crumb and a pleasant taste.

The composition of soda bread includes flour, baking soda, salt and buttermilk (in the absence of which kefir is used).

RECIPE

Flour 500 g (preferably a mixture of whole grain flour and premium flour)

Soda 12 g = 1 tsp

Baking powder 12 g = 1 tsp.

Salt 10 g = 1 tsp

Butter (or margarine) 50 g

Kefir 300-400 ml (depending on flour moisture content)

BREAD GREASING MIXTURE: Mix 3 tablespoons of melted butter and ¼ cup of kefir

TECHNOLOGY:

Grind the softened butter with flour and mix with soda, baking powder, salt.

Add kefir to flour.

Knead everything - the dough should be quite soft

Put on a table sprinkled with flour, give a rounded shape.

You can bake such bread in the form.

Put it on a baking sheet lined with baking paper, make a cross-shaped incision with a knife and grease with a mixture of kefir and butter.

During the baking process, you can brush the bread again with this mixture.

Bake in an oven preheated to 200 degrees for 40 - 50 minutes (check with a toothpick after 40 minutes of baking).

Originally, soda bread was baked in bastible cast-iron braziers suitable for use over an open flame or coals.

We can say with responsibility that it is possible and even necessary to eat bread: it is an indispensable source of vitamin B, which acts as a regulator of the nervous system and protects against stress. True, if you want to protect yourself from extra pounds and maintain health, we advise you to choose the so-called artisan bread (artisan bread) - its preparation does not use chemical components and flavor enhancers that adversely affect the digestive system and slow down metabolism. The main ingredients of such a product are water, flour and salt. Dry yeast, about the benefits and dangers of which there are very conflicting opinions, is usually absent in it - they are replaced by natural sourdough. And of course, the main character of artisan bread is whole grain flour, which, unlike premium flour and flour mixtures, has a low glycemic index, which means that it is not processed instantly into glucose and does not increase blood sugar levels. Wholemeal bread preserves vitamins, minerals and proteins, which cannot be said about its relative from the supermarket. However, there is nothing related in them: handicraft-made loaves are even baked differently - in a hearth oven, on a stone, after which they form a dense crispy crust, and the shelf life increases to seven days. 6 main places where you can buy the best artisan bread in the city - in the ELLE selection.

Pechorin

Mozhaisky Val, 10; Dorogomilovsky market

The bass player of the group "Accident" Roman Mamaev developed a love for home baking into a full-fledged bakery project called "Pechorin". Bread is ordered here by such restaurants as White Rabbit and Matryoshka, and given that the production is small, and about 100 loaves are made per day, we advise you not to delay your trip to the market - in the afternoon there is a risk of missing a piece. In the bakery, in general, you can pick up bread only at 8 in the morning.

Elle's Choice: The bakery produces only two types of bread: "Pechorin 1" and "Pechorin 2", wheat and rye-wheat. We vote for the first one - it has a light creamy taste, does not sour and does not leave a feeling of heaviness.

Glavkhleb

Semenovskaya embankment, 2/1, building 1

The brainchild of entrepreneur Roman Bunyakov, a catering technology specialist and director of the restaurant equipment company Tekhnoflot, which at first existed as a small compartment on the Danilovsky market, and then turned into a full-fledged bakery on Semenovskaya embankment, which today supplies bread to Alexander Rappoport restaurants. Bread, in Glavkhleb's understanding, should be, first and last, useful - the bakery develops its own sourdoughs and sourdoughs using only natural ingredients.

Elle's Choice: A loaf of gray multi-grain with a luxurious tight crust, Beetroot bread with fresh beets and dill, and Rustic rye bread, which is ideal for bruschetta.

Sasha Bread Bakery

In the shops "LavkaLavka", "Garden City", "CloverMyaso" and others.

Before opening a bakery, Daria Myasishcheva worked as a lawyer in the production company of Alexander Shulgin, worked in real estate and trained with chef Ivan Shishkin at the Delicatssen restaurant. The passion for bread began with a gathering with a friend two years ago, when the girls decided to bake something together. Myasishcheva became interested in making ruddy loaves - posting a photo of one of them on Facebook, she received an offer to take part in the Omnivor International Gastronomy Festival. After that, she bought a hearth oven and decided to open her own production.

Elle's Choice: Buckwheat bread on sourdough and fruit bread with a signature print from Sasha Bread flour - a loaf is enough for a week, unless of course you restrain yourself and do not eat everything in one sitting.

Little Bakery Zhuravlyov

8 branches throughout the city

Sergey and Alena Zhuravlev were inspired to create their own bakery by cozy family bakeries in European cities where they spent their holidays. At the end of 2015, the couple rented a production facility near the Rogozhsky market and a point in the market itself to sell takeaway bread and pastries. The next step was the opening of a bakery on Avtozavodskaya, which already looked like a full-fledged cafe where you can buy artisan bread and have a full meal. Today, Little Bakery has become a successful network of eight coffee houses, for which Sergey and Alena not only develop bread and pastry recipes themselves, but also design the interior.

Elle's Choice: Seaweed baguette, yeast-free baguette and nut bread are perfect for both everyday and festive tables.

Bush

Teatralny proezd 5/1

The first confectionery "Bushe" opened in St. Petersburg in 1999 and captivated residents and tourists with its signature monogram with raspberries, for which there were queues. Today, there is no shortage of famous desserts - 34 branches of the network are open in the city, but they are visited mainly because of the extensive assortment of artisan bread. In October, the bakery came to Moscow, located on the -1st floor of the Children's World on Lubyanka.

Elle's Choice: So far, there are only two types of bread in the Moscow branch, but they promise that the main hits of the bakery will appear very soon - Lapland bread with chopped rye grains on bio-sourdough and Karlovatsky bread with sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds and carrots.

Biobrot

Kotelniki, st. Parkovaya, 67A

To taste "artizan" using German technology, you will have to go to the Moscow region, but the trip is worth it - the bread they sell here is absolutely fantastic. The main specialization of the company is the sale of "old German" Haussler ovens. To demonstrate their work, a bakery was opened in Kotelniki, where you can not only buy products, but also watch how the chef prepares them.

Elle's Choice: Rustic rye sourdough with 70% rye, black baguette with malt and spelled bread - original tastes and the most useful composition.

For 14 years, the Bushe bakery has turned from a small production into one of the most technologically advanced complexes that have no analogues in the city. Every day the company produces more than 9 tons of products: 40 types of bread, 10 types of cakes, 20 types of cakes and 45 types of puff products. We visited the production and looked at how the process works from the inside.

The bakery shop prepares 40 types of bread, and new ones are constantly being added. All recipes are entered into the computer and, according to the prescription, this or that ingredient is poured into the dough. Components that are needed in small doses are added manually. Flour enters the workshops through a special flour pipeline with an aeration system, which enriches the flour with oxygen.

For rye bread, they additionally use bio-sourdough, which they also prepare themselves. It takes 48 hours to prepare. After dosing, all ingredients are sent to an automatic kneading machine. After 18-20 minutes the dough is ready.

The finished dough from a large cauldron is poured into cutting lines, there are three of them: bread, with stress-free pressure (to preserve bubbles, which is important, for example, for making ciabatta) and kening (for small pastries, buns and croissants). After the machine has divided the dough into equal pieces, manual labor is involved: employees shape the bread manually. Then the bread is sent to proofers and allowed to rest a little. In Bush, the principle of slowness is generally promoted, for example, they do not use any chemical additives and improvers in order for the dough to rise faster or brew faster.

The last step in making bread is baking. It is baked either in hearth or molded ovens. In the first case, the bread turns out to be traditional, similar to the one that grandmothers baked in the “Russian oven”. Baking on the hearth - baking on the stone, which gives the bread all its heat. The temperature is applied to the center of the crumb, so a crispy crust forms on top. Next, the bread travels along the belt to the oven, where it is baked for about half an hour, and then automatically moves to the packaging department, and from there goes straight to the bakeries and pastry shops.

Croissants, puffs, monograms, rolls and other types of buns are made in the puff shop. The technology is similar to the production of bread: the dough is kneaded (by the way, 30% ice is added there to keep it cold), then it goes to the cutting line, where natural butter is added to it and rolled out in layers. After, with the help of 40 nozzles, on another tape, the dough is given the desired shape, the filling is laid and the finished puff is sent to the proofer. Then it is frozen at a temperature of -30 degrees, and they are baked already on the spot, in bakeries and confectioneries.

The St. Petersburg network of bakeries and confectionery "Bushe" has 6 cafes and 16 shops on wheels next to the metro. Most of the bread is baked in the central production complex and immediately delivered to the points of sale, some is made locally, which makes it possible to sell products directly from the oven. In the "Bush" they cook pastries, cakes, puffs, bread and "small things" - in professional slang, they call small buns. They try to bring their own know-how into the traditional recipe - an unusual form or a new ingredient. Therefore, classic rye bread is produced in the form of a ring and pumpkin seeds are added to it. Bread is baked at night so that it is ready in the early morning. During the day, the most popular types of bread and puffs are baked, and orders are also prepared for wholesale buyers - supermarkets, restaurants, hotels. If all the bread is not sold at the outlets until the evening, then the next day it has a 50% discount, which is often used by pensioners.

Office of the Week (Petersburg): Bushe Confectionery

DOUGH

Dough production begins with the dosing of raw materials: wheat and rye flour, water, sourdough and pumpkin seeds are measured by a machine programmed for a specific recipe. Salt and other ingredients needed in small doses are weighed by hand. The sourdough is made by the bakeries themselves and takes 48 hours to prepare. After dosing, all ingredients are sent to an automatic kneading machine. After 18 minutes the dough is ready.

Automatic dispenser
Automatic dispenser

Ingredients needed in small doses are weighed by hand
Kneading machine

FORM

The kneaded dough is moved to an automatic divider - the machine divides the large shapeless mass into equal pieces of 1 kg and 60 grams, after which the future bread falls on the pre-rounding belt. Having rounded, the blank goes to the pre-proofing machine, where it infuses and, in culinary terms, “gets rid of stress.” Finally, the rested dough reaches the table, where the bakers form each piece into a ring. Each type of bread has its own shape, but not all varieties are handmade.

For rye bread with a hole, baskets have been developed to help bakers stamp the same products.

For rye bread with a hole, baskets have been developed to help bakers stamp the same products. After molding, the spread out rings on a cart are sent to the proofing chamber for another hour and a half. When the dough is kneaded and passed through machines, itbecomes too tight. In order for the finished product to turn out airy, the consequences of “stress” must be minimized; for this, the dough is left for a while in a proofer. Here, at a temperature of 30 degrees and a humidity of 75 percent, yeast begins to work - the bread becomes porous and takes on the desired taste.

The kneaded dough moves to the automatic divider

The machine divides a large shapeless mass into equal pieces


The dough falls on the pre-rounding belt
The dough falls on the table where the bakers form each piece into a ring
For rye bread with a hole, baskets have been developed to help workers stamp the same products.

Each type of bread has its own shape, but not all varieties are handmade.




After molding, the unfolded rings on the cart are sent to the proofing chamber for another hour and a half

BAKERY PRODUCTS

Formed dough is laid out on the table by hand, which travels along the belt into the hearth oven. Then the oven does everything by itself: there is a separate program for each type of bread. After 50 minutes, the finished bread goes to the packing shop on an automatic belt, where it is laid out in boxes for transportation. The tape runs almost under the ceiling, thus eliminating the ingress of dust on the finished bread.

Formed dough is manually laid out on the table, which travels along a belt into an automatic hearth oven.








The oven does everything by itself: there is a separate program for each type of bread
The tape runs almost under the ceiling
Immediately from the bakery, the bread is sent for sale to the confectionery

"Bush" in St. Petersburg

The first bakery-confectionery "" opened in 1999. Today, 34 restaurants operate under this sign in St. Petersburg. It is customary to say that these are confectioneries, but, firstly, these are confectionery bakeries. And secondly, in 2015 the chain was rebranded and the format changed - now these are full-fledged cafes with breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Since then, the company has experienced rapid growth.

A few more facts. “Bush” is loved by bloggers, and, it seems, not just for money, but from the heart - 36624 photos with the hashtag have been published on Instagram. The network promotes the term "stormy" and its various variants: #stormybreakfast, #stormyweekend and so on. A year ago, "Bush" filmed a short film about people in St. Petersburg "", which made them even more associated with their native city.

A post shared by BUSHE (@bushe_bakery) on Nov 6, 2017 at 9:04am PST

Bush in Moscow

The first Bushe bakery was opened on the ground floor of the building of the Central Children's Store on Lubyanka. There are two ways to get into it: firstly, by passing through the first floor of the Central Children's House, and secondly, from the side of the entrance to the store from Rozhdestvenka Street. The second option is much better - this way you will find yourself in a cafe almost from the street. Walking through the shopping center, which has no signs, under the hits of The Beatles covered by children, is a dubious pleasure.

Bush claims that the place was not chosen by chance, that they wanted the first cafe-confectionery to be located as centrally as possible and at the same time in a place with history. Alas, it didn't work. CDM is no longer a dream, but a soulless shopping center, which is unpleasant to be in. And the second thing is that it is so difficult to find "Bush" in the store that it simply does not dare to call it a central location.

The menu is almost the same as in St. Petersburg, except that there is less bread and desserts. But there are sandwiches, soups, salads, pasta, risotto and breakfasts - they rely on a cafe, and not on a confectionery or even a bakery. Own production is located in the same building. Within the next three months, two more bakeries of the chain are to open in Moscow, they also promise production, and on a larger scale. I would like the whole assortment of bakery bread to appear there, this part of the brand is stronger than pasta and sandwiches.

Muffin and two brioches from the Moscow "Bush" - in fact, are not what they say.

1 of 4

Brioche with cranberries and raisins (70 rubles) is just not a brioche. This is a sweet pleasant bun, more even Easter cake. Brioche is not defined by the amount of sugar, brioche is a muffin. And baking is determined by the amount of butter and eggs.

2 of 4

Brioche with apple, cinnamon and raisins (70 rubles) - the same. A nice sweet bun, not a brioche, very wintery in composition.

3 of 4

Baking (70 rubles) - closest to brioche, but still not it.

4 out of 4

Bread is even weirder. In general, he is not bad, but I was very lucky to stumble upon a marriage.

A post shared by Anna Maslovskaya's Food Stories (@annamaslovskaya) on Nov 1, 2017 at 8:33am PDT

Verdict

"Bush" is very average food and desserts, which are already enough in Moscow, and slightly above average pastries and bread. "Bush" is not a legend, it is an understandable brand for vanilla (do you remember those?), one hundred percent from St. Petersburg. It's not bad, it's a mass product niche. Bread, perhaps, will be able to compete with Volkonsky and Daily Bread. The imperfect buns described above have, unfortunately, no analogues in our city at all. It is for them here that you should go in the first place. Food - I would not recommend. It will be interesting to see how the image of the brand changes. Will his St. Petersburg style help his Moscow popularity, or, on the contrary, "Bush" will figure out how to mimic the Moscow style. Let's wait and see, and I hope the next "Bush" will not be in shopping centers.